http://www.savage-central.com

No, I meant the brake hub.

I wouldn't mind upgraded center cups. Guessing your not intending on making the hub/cup to work with the pink disks?

The "About Us" section in the page footers still needs updated. About us Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. In porttitor lectus quis mattis aliquet. Cras in nibh et eros porttitor facilisis. Nunc egestas eget leo vel dapibus. Cum sociis natoque penatibus et magnis dis parturien...

Issue appears to no longer exist on the new forum. YAY!

Been a while since I posted on here, but noticing that every time I post a reply to a thread, I'm getting the following error: General Error Could not insert new word matches DEBUG MODE SQL Error : 144 Table './savage_central_evo/nuke_bbsearch_wordmatch' is marked as crashed and last (automatic?) re...

I know this is an older thread, but I recently ran across a thread elsewhere where the guy lowered the stock tank about 1/2" so when the tank was full, the level of fuel is about even with the carb inlet. This seems to help the HTL issue. I recently had to remove my old OFNA 125cc tank because it's ...

Post up some photo's if you get it installed. I ran the old OFNA 125cc tank on my savages for years, but the current one on my X, the spring is shot and the o-rings are dead, so it leaked really bad. I went back to the stock tank, but lowered it about 1/2" to help combat the HTL issue. Seems to have...

I usually just use fasteddy bearings for all my rigs. $1 a bearing makes it pretty easy to have extra on hand. I ran avid's for quite a while, but didn't see any real benifit to the metal/rubber sheild and for axle bearings, they didn't seem to hold up as well as fe's did. I ran boca green seals man...

I'm guessing he used these: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCate ... D=GSCST082

Umm.... I have them in my savage in my aluminum diff housing and they fit perfectly. The ones that I made a link for... I have 2 or 3 in my savage right now in the rear diff. They have been in ther for about 2 gallons of use.

It was awhile back when they first came out. People were throwing con-rods and there was a washer inside on the one way or something that would shred and toast the engine. I had a mach 15 and it only lasted 3 gallons before compression was completely gone. I tried replacing the piston/sleeve/con-ro...

It was awhile back when they first came out. People were throwing con-rods and there was a washer inside on the one way or something that would shred and toast the engine. I had a mach 15 and it only lasted 3 gallons before compression was completely gone. I tried replacing the piston/sleeve/con-rod...

No. You need these for side to side: m They go in the diff case and the outside race of the large bearings on the out drive press against them. The ones above are the same as the ones in the kyosho kit that comes with a bunch of crap you don't need. I bought 2 sets to do my diffs, but I only did one...

Guys... I don't think he's talking about the "tower" brand. Just the engines available at tower. There are some decent ones there. The HPI 28 (4.6) is a decent engine. Not a high rev'ing engine, but pretty stable and loads of torque. From what I've read and heard, the OFNA/Picco variaty are decent p...

what ggod is this upgrade? I'm not 100% of all the reasons... if there are more than a couple. I did it so I didn't have to use the cheesy servo saver thing that's stock and so I could adjust my brakes "feel" easier with fuel tubing or springs. I added bearings for longer life and better precision ...

I'm pretty sure my kit came with two slider pieces, no wire and a couple springs.

I bought this one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... LXBL82&P=7

Both are connected to the same arm. The springs and stops on the wires take the place of the OEM arm.

I'd be curious how many teeth the ring gear has on it.

I have the stopper for the brake. When WOT, it doesn't move the arm far enough to engage the brake. I have it on mine to ensure that when I'm at idle or low RPM's, the brake isn't dragging. I used a Du-Bro arm, OFNA sliders, Du-Bro clamps, 2mm threaded end rod with du-bro 2mm ball ends for the throt...

I don't know about that, they are only $20:
http://www.rcmodels.com/rc-tmk-101-001.html
http://www.rcmodels.com/rc-tmk-101-006.html
http://www.rcmodels.com/rc-tmk-101-002.html
http://www.rcmodels.com/rc-tmk-101-007.html