my Savage x 4.6

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NizzleMaShizzle
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Re: my Savage x 4.6

Post by NizzleMaShizzle » Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:20 pm

good advice messiah....the newer hitec digital servos are going 25t (like the 9380), but the older sport servos like the one grim has is 24t. Also check that your throttle and brake endpoints are fully adjusted for max throw. If I were you grim I would install a clamp style horn that way you have 2 points on the horn that grab the spline (screw on top of servo horn and set screw on the side of the servo horn) something like this:

Image

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ofna-10774-CNC- ... 2c91702986

As far as the binding in your drivetrain, that is CRAZY man. Something is up. You said in the video you removed the brakes. I was gonna suspect that your brake assembly was on too tight and I was gonna say for you to back out the brake screws in 1/8 turn increments until the binding stopped. The only other suggestion I have is binding in the rear dogbone.
[img]http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa436/subyboo/Savage/SC_zpse28103b3.jpg[/img]

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MShark
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Post by MShark » Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:49 pm

[quote="messiah1";p="885428"]Is it the proper spline servo horn?
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MonoSavageX
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Post by MonoSavageX » Tue Apr 14, 2015 11:34 pm

for the drive train binding. could it be the diffs be installed improper? I know that if you have them in wrong it will lock up the drive train completely. IDK just a thought.
Savage X LRP.32 All sorts of upgrades!!!
Savage SS Custom machined TVPs LRP.28
LOSI 5ive-T Upgraded engine/servos
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If your not supposed to break them, why do they make new parts?

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messiah1
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Post by messiah1 » Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:59 am

Here's a good link to show the spline count on the Hitech servo range:

Hitec Servo Splines

And you should definitely get a clamping style horn like Nizzle pointed out.  I like the Robotronics horns myself.

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Post by I_Like_Nitro » Thu Apr 16, 2015 3:57 am

re: binding if you are unable to pin point it directly, ensure that the screws that in to the bulk head (under the diffs) are not too long or screwed in too far). It's happened to me a few times...I'll grab a screw that is a tad bit longer and it binds it up. Try unscrewing each a bit to see if it frees it up

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Post by messiah1 » Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:09 am

^ Ditto on that.  Couldn't understand why it was binding, started to take everything apart and when I backed out those screws it started spinning freely.

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Post by GrimReaper » Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:07 pm

cool thanks for all the advice guys. Im pleased to report that I've got it all fixed now so it's ready to go  :D

The servo horn had stripped, so I've replaced it with the horn that came in the OFNA linkage kit........it's work perfect now, opens the carby right up and brakes are working!!

Thanks for the links, I'll grab an alloy horn down the track.........I had one but sold it ages ago on another (forgot to keep it)  :roll:

As for the binding, the brake pads weren't on properly and it was binding on the screw sleeves, so it's sorted. I also loosened the crown and pinion drive pins and I had them a bit tight......

And I checked the bulkhead screws, these are all stock screws that came with the kit, but I backed them all out 1/8 or a turn.

It is much better now so we'll see how it goes

thanks again guys

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MonoSavageX
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Post by MonoSavageX » Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:21 pm

yea even the stock screws will have this issue if you tighten them too much I noticed that right away after stripping it down and rebuilding the truck.
Savage X LRP.32 All sorts of upgrades!!!
Savage SS Custom machined TVPs LRP.28
LOSI 5ive-T Upgraded engine/servos
Jato 3.3 Stock


If your not supposed to break them, why do they make new parts?

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Post by GrimReaper » Mon May 04, 2015 3:10 am

Well I finally managed to give it a squirt this afternoon.....as I promised the girls they could watch lol......plus I needed wifey to film for me

Needs to be finely tuned but man it's got some balls headbang

https://youtu.be/kOCPMTHutjc

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NizzleMaShizzle
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Post by NizzleMaShizzle » Tue May 05, 2015 6:03 pm

Awesome Grim! I just watched your video good stuff mah man! I liked and subbed so im looking forward to more running vids of your bad arse savage!
[img]http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa436/subyboo/Savage/SC_zpse28103b3.jpg[/img]

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Post by GrimReaper » Sun Aug 09, 2015 8:53 pm

Okay so it's been a while since my last update. I got some Proline Badlands 3.2's on it now and it's much more grippy. At a recent bash I got to put the Savage through it's paces. It was going really well and started putting in some jumps and the shocks and car itself held up well, probably cause I got some good landings lol.

But after one bad landing on it's roof it became apparent that the plastic spur gear just doesn't cut it.........one spur shagged.

I had a spare one which I put on it and sure enough, not long after this shagged aswell


So I want to upgrade to a steel spur

Question is, which one recommended, tried and tested? which one is better, the HPI one or the Robinson Racing one. And I see there are two types of the RR one. So which one should I go for?

Thanks guys

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Post by MShark » Sun Aug 09, 2015 10:12 pm

Are you sure the spur got chipped from a roof landing? I've been landing hard a lot to the point of deforming my rollbar but I'm still using the same plastic spur gear for the last 4 gallons. I've used the stock HPI metal spur gear on my 3 speed with no problems but I slapped my 2 speed back on using the plastic spur. I haven't had any experience with the RR spur but heard mixed comments on it.

You might want to check your engine plate, motor mount and chassis for any cracks or bends before going to a metal spur.
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Post by Mendoza » Sun Aug 16, 2015 5:20 am

++ on HPI metal spur ... use them on my Savage 25 and XSS with the HPI CB. You won't loose any teeth that's for sure.

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Post by GrimReaper » Mon Aug 17, 2015 7:39 pm

Ok thanks guys. I noticed that 2 engine screws had come loose which may have been the cause for the first spur stripping. The engine plate and chassis and everything else looked and seemed fine when I removed the engine for the second spur.

When I installed the second spur, it was already used and I may have meshed the gearing too tight as I was in a rush to get back out in the action. Anyway I'll get another plastic spur and see how that goes. I might also get a HPI steel spur and see how it goes.

I'm currently running a 16t HPI vented CB - with a 49t spur........If I get the steel one, will a 52t spur work? or be too big? Or just stick to either 47 or 49 in steel?

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Mendoza
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Post by Mendoza » Sun Aug 23, 2015 5:56 pm

Loses engine mount screws with definitely do it. That's happened to me before but because I was running metal spur and picked it up early it didn't cause any damage. Give those main things a check after every run.

I put heat resistant strong loctite on those mounting screws which you should leave to set for at least 24 hours, 48 is better before running the truck.

52 spur will fit but I'd go between 47-49. To get your gear ratio just divide the spur teeth by the CB teeth... The lower the number the higher top speed. The higher the number the more bottom end. But the further you go on either end of the spectrum will sacrifice a little of the other. You should select based on what you prefer.

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Post by GrimReaper » Sun Sep 27, 2015 7:09 pm

Ok fitting a brand new plastic spur and I just went to the local park to have a squirt, it goes but something is not right, very slow.

I checked the spur which is on tight, but it doesn't spin true, it wobbles which is causing the spur to slip and already starting to strip slightly

Anyone else experienced this wobbling issue?? I might have to pull it apart again and check the gearbox, the spur gear shaft might be slightly bent, if that possible??

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Sun Sep 27, 2015 9:25 pm

Take you whole spur setup off and check your slipper pad. Then reinstall everything, if you over tightened the nut you could have slightly bent the spur shaft
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Post by Mendoza » Tue Sep 29, 2015 12:12 am

Agree with LL. I have had warped spur gear... Usually warps from the heat that it generates from slippage and the CB... I changed my spur to steel, changed the input shaft and put a new slipper pad in. I then tightened the daylights out of the slipper so there is effectively 'no slip'.

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Post by GrimReaper » Mon Oct 05, 2015 12:10 am

Thanks guys pulled the gearbox apart today and found the spur shaft was bent where the nut goes on. Tried to fix it but it snapped. Lucky it's only cheap to replace. Picking one up tomorrow. Easy fix at least

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