my Savage x 4.6

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GrimReaper
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my Savage x 4.6

Post by GrimReaper » Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:06 am

Well my new toy arrived today. It's in pretty good nic, but will probably get fresh air filter foams, some alloy clutch shoes and will look at changing the colour theme to Black and green

The shocks seem a bit sloppy also so gonna see if I can get fresh oil in them and some different coloured springs, like fluro green?

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Last edited by GrimReaper on Thu Mar 05, 2015 5:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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MonoSavageX
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Post by MonoSavageX » Wed Mar 04, 2015 11:49 pm

Very cool man congrats on your "new" project  :D

You may want to check into switching the shocks over to big bores. Just a suggestion.
Savage X LRP.32 All sorts of upgrades!!!
Savage SS Custom machined TVPs LRP.28
LOSI 5ive-T Upgraded engine/servos
Jato 3.3 Stock


If your not supposed to break them, why do they make new parts?

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GhostbikerNL
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Post by GhostbikerNL » Thu Mar 05, 2015 2:58 am

isn't that a spare bigbore in the bag i see there? :wink:
if not, like monosavage x said, go for the bigbore's, there cheap to find on ebay (jenny's rc)

have fun with it!! and keep posting :lol:
Savage Tcs XL Flux, ma1n5t cage, Alza brace kit, hpi suspension conversion kit, and mods of the great SC!

Savage XL k4.6, bp flux diffs, home made hinge braces and other mild mods

Feel free to ask there's Savage central for!!

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GrimReaper
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Post by GrimReaper » Fri Mar 06, 2015 6:28 am

ok thanks guys, I'm not sure what's spare in the bag yet, haven't had a chance to look, but I think they are just stock. I'll look into the big bores.

Also, need to get new air filter foams as the current one is old and worn..........does it have to be HPI savage specific? or will any 1/8 dual stage air filter foams fit?

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GhostbikerNL
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Post by GhostbikerNL » Fri Mar 06, 2015 6:39 am

i just have good experience with the stock airfilter, cheap, easy to find, and works fine for me

But prob any 2 stage filter wil work, i've heard to stay away from the K&N style filters
Savage Tcs XL Flux, ma1n5t cage, Alza brace kit, hpi suspension conversion kit, and mods of the great SC!

Savage XL k4.6, bp flux diffs, home made hinge braces and other mild mods

Feel free to ask there's Savage central for!!

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GrimReaper
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Post by GrimReaper » Fri Mar 06, 2015 6:43 am

ok thanks, I'm not after the whole filter setup, just want to replace the foams that's all

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GhostbikerNL
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Post by GhostbikerNL » Fri Mar 06, 2015 6:44 am

jenny's rc has them for cheap ( the whole unit )
or you can wash them out en oil them again
Savage Tcs XL Flux, ma1n5t cage, Alza brace kit, hpi suspension conversion kit, and mods of the great SC!

Savage XL k4.6, bp flux diffs, home made hinge braces and other mild mods

Feel free to ask there's Savage central for!!

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GrimReaper
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Post by GrimReaper » Fri Mar 06, 2015 7:07 am

where is jenny's rc?

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GhostbikerNL
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Post by GhostbikerNL » Fri Mar 06, 2015 7:24 am

Savage Tcs XL Flux, ma1n5t cage, Alza brace kit, hpi suspension conversion kit, and mods of the great SC!

Savage XL k4.6, bp flux diffs, home made hinge braces and other mild mods

Feel free to ask there's Savage central for!!

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GrimReaper
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Post by GrimReaper » Thu Mar 12, 2015 8:28 pm

Right, so I finally picked up some fuel yesterday. I had to settle for 20% as the LHS ran out of 25% but they said it will still be fine to run the 20.

Today I had a couple hours spare to have a play in the garage. First thing needed was to sort out the electrics and install my rx...........pretty simple so far.

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Then I noticed the fuel tank was loose and didn't want it to rattle around, not sure if this is normally how they are, but I made it solid with whatever I could find, couple fuel line clips did the trick

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Anyway, filled the tank and was about to fire it up, then I noticed that the throttle linkage wasn't working properly, and I can't work out what's happening when I put brakes on nothing happens

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I mucked around with it for a while, but it's still not perfect and causes the engine not to idle properly. Here's a vid of what I mean

https://youtu.be/wyI4YHZcdPk

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GrimReaper
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Post by GrimReaper » Sat Mar 14, 2015 9:48 pm

hey guys, I've seen a couple of you tube vids of a throttle bake linkage mod using OFNA parts?

Can someone please advise where the best place would be to get these parts from, I'm in Australia.

Also, I've heard the OFNA servo horns don't fit the Hitec 645mg servo's, can anyone confirm or deny this?

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I_Like_Nitro
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Post by I_Like_Nitro » Mon Mar 16, 2015 3:20 am

I can confirm that OFNA's 24 tooth horn fit Hitec's standard servos and (I run OFNA horns on four HiTecs). None are that model but don't know why it would be different.

Regarding the throttle linkage....they don't have to be OFNA parts. Most 1/8 nitro vehicles have the components. Mine is made up of very many different vehicled (including OFNA) You just need throttle/brake rods (dubro is popular), actuators, return springs and collars.

Regarding the brakes, if the throttle servo itself is not moving then it is most likely going to be the trim set all the way to one side...or the brake travel is low or at 0. Let me know if this does not make sense.

Regardless, it is not the linkage is broken...it is simply not set up correctly, The throttle modification is not going to fix it. My suggestion is to get this linkage going good (it works fine, IMO). Then once, you see areas for improvement on the HPI throttle linkage you can best decide

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GrimReaper
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Post by GrimReaper » Mon Mar 16, 2015 7:28 am

ok thanks for that. Okay when I take off the stock throttle servo horn and pull the trigger, I can see the servo actually moving from left to right as it should, but when I put the servo horn back on it's a different story.

With the horn on, when i pull the trigger, it opens up the carby fine as it should, but when I go to apply brakes this is when the horn fails. The horn doesn't travel at all, it stays put but you can see the servo saver or gold ring on the actual horn itself moving...........so it doesn't apply brakes at all.

When I grab the brake linkage with my fingers, and pull it slightly to the left, it will engage the brakes, but if I put a little more pressure on the linkage, it actually will do a full rotation, which I'm thinking is not good and seems it could be something wrong internally......which I can't see unless I pull it apart.

Tomorrow I will test the servo with a standard horn and see if it swivels from left to right like it should normally........then go from there

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I_Like_Nitro
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Post by I_Like_Nitro » Mon Mar 16, 2015 8:47 am

No problem I'm sure it's an easy fix if did you put the horn together yourself or did it come already put together? It's been a while since I use that horn but there should be as you noted a gold ring that allows the horn took to swivel. I have some videos on how it all works I'll try to find and post up here shortly

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Post by I_Like_Nitro » Mon Mar 16, 2015 8:53 am

One more thing you noted when you pull with pressure it will move there should be no pressure whatsoever between the two weeks it's really serving as an actuator so it should be smooth no friction whatsoever take off the brake lever and see if it moves freely if it's inconsistent your server might've crapped out but if it's consistently behaving the same way it's something else probably. Regardless you'll get it worked out. I'll try to find that vid as noted and send to you it might spark an idea for you as to what is wrong.

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GrimReaper
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Post by GrimReaper » Tue Mar 17, 2015 4:45 am

ok thanks for that. Well it's definitely not the servo. I found another servo horn, which is 23T btw and it fits perfect. Anyway I put this one on and without attaching the linkage rod, I get movement from left to right, so it's not the servo.

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When I connect the rod and pull the trigger, the servo moves to the right (is this correct?) and pulls the carby open smooth all the way. But when I apply the brake, the bell crank stops and won't move any further, which causes the servo horn to rotate over the actual teeth on the servo.............

Questions...is the bell crank supposed to move freely left to right?  

And will the OFNA linkage setup work with this horn I have? or will I need to heavy duty servo horn pack?

Anyway, I commenced the strip down and found a few things

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stock diff I presume?

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I was expecting 14mm hubs, but it's got 17mm which is good, I can run truggy wheels if required

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brake pads are shot to crap, so need some new pads

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could do with a new spur gear and slipper pad aswell

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I was advised the clutch shoes may have been worn, but they look good still

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After a couple hours, car ended up in a box for the rebuild, and alloy parts left out for annodizing

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stay tuned

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I_Like_Nitro
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Post by I_Like_Nitro » Thu Mar 19, 2015 12:59 am

Where the servo hord gear teeth stripped or was it that ring that actuates to the two arms on the servo (assume it was that or it would not work either way with much load.

This is why I inquired if you build the horn (I think your version is a kit), I had a stock one so it was prebuilt I ran it for about 6-7 gallons no prioblem. Then I switched and had ot re-build it I could never get it to stay on againl Might ne worth keeping an eye on has having no brakes sucks...at times, ;l-)

The clutch shoes look fine. They will last 10+ gallons if you take care of them (keeoing all the oils and grease off the shoes and the bell. The one thing you pronably want to look for in those nylon shoes are the pin holes. sometimes they get deformed if the clutch is too hot.

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GrimReaper
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Post by GrimReaper » Thu Mar 19, 2015 8:05 pm

The horn it came with I believe is the stock horn. I didn't touch it until I installed my own TX. The servo's were already in the car when it came to me. The guy I got it off reckons he had no issues with it, but when I applied brakes, it was actually opening up the carby about half way (not good when driving lol) and wasn't returning properly, or the bottom half of the horn wasn't sliding to the left to apply brakes...............either way something was wrong.

Yeah I was surprised with how clean and good cond. the shoes are. Another reason why I want to run a vented bell, to help with cooling.

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GrimReaper
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Post by GrimReaper » Sat Mar 21, 2015 12:40 am

Rightio so I've placed my order with Amain just need to wait now.

Had a little bit of spare time yesterday and today so deannoed the alloy parts and worked on the shell

Couple coats of rattle can paint I had left over, turned out a treat

Image

Got a decal sheet off ebay a while ago knowing this was the them I wanted, so here it is, came up okay I think

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I_Like_Nitro
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Post by I_Like_Nitro » Sat Mar 21, 2015 4:54 am

[quote="GrimReaper";p="885133"] Another reason why I want to run a vented bell, to help with cooling.[/quote]
Ha ha. It can be challenging to keel any clutch on the Savage cool ...mainly because there are so many possibly points of failure to quickly get it hot.

I personally have not seen vented bells make a difference on any vehicle I've run (and I have at least on vented bell for each of my vehicles). I try to keep shoes and bells a 1-to-1 for a lot of reasons (residue, how the seat, etc.)

I pulled up some old notes I was keeping one time while working through some issues. This might better illustrate my rationale.

Let the 'failure point' (stripped spur/melted shoes/popped bearings) be the 550 range). When I ran a stock setup--everything shimmed correctly....the bell temps were in the 400 range. No issues. Same stock setup except a vented bell. The bell temps where in the 300 range. No issues. In other words it runs cooler but it was here nor there,.

But then I started eating spurs. My rear joint post was bent, taking the plate and mount with it. Consequently the bell was rubbing against the brake disk. Didn't matter it if was vented or not---it got over 550 (in this example) and bad things happened. Nylon doesn't cause as much friction heat,. Just keep an eye on those clutch bearing. You stated you didn't want to buy them (they are 99 cents) because of a budget...which I completely respect.

So in my mind I'd think you'd consider the opposite,. Technically a bearing that runs 100 degrees cooler will wear out faster. However, when set=up properly heat it not what will destroy it. That is in a pretty hostile environment, and they get griitty fast--if you let them continue that path they will spit grease, cause slippage--bad things (and vented will allow more debris in.) So with that you'd want to change your cb's regularly. If I were on a budget I'd save the money I'd spend extra on a vented and invest that on ensuring my clutch bearings were good.

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