Slipper Clutch or Differential?

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JmaesV
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Slipper Clutch or Differential?

Post by JmaesV » Sun Nov 08, 2015 5:20 pm

I was doing some WOT passes with my Savage XL (LRP 32), then all of a sudden the wheels start losing power. The engine is running good and revving but the truck isn't moving too fast.

I haven't took my truck apart yet to inspect what the problem is.
Last time this happened, I just tightened the slipper clutch, but this time the slipper looks okay.

What are the possibilities that it could be a shot front/rear differential or other things? it's suppose to have the upgraded sinister / bulletproof differentials.

I'm hoping it's just the slipper clutch issue again and if it is, would anyone know if the Robinson Racing Gen 3 slipper unit for the Savage 4.6 also fit the Savage XL?

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SV250
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Post by SV250 » Sun Nov 08, 2015 9:26 pm

Could be the spur gear, diffs, missing grub screw in one of the shafts, clutch or tranny.

Start with the spur gear then check the grub screws. Test the diffs by rolling one wheel off the ground then both in the same direction and listen/feel.
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v376/sv250/383%20Jeep/SV-SIG04-02.png[/img]
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v376/sv250/?special_track=nav_tab_album

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JmaesV
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Post by JmaesV » Mon Nov 09, 2015 3:45 am

Thank SV250.
I found the problem, the R/Rear hex hub stripped the wheel. I guess I didn't notice the wheel nut was loose. Gonna need to get a new tire.

Also, does anybody know if the RR Gen 3 Slipper Unit be compatible with the stock HPI Vented Clutchbells?

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Post by JmaesV » Mon Nov 23, 2015 1:50 am

How can you test if the transmission is shot?

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Post by Squid » Mon Nov 23, 2015 5:50 am

What's the issue? There can be several things wrong in the tranny.

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Post by JmaesV » Mon Nov 23, 2015 5:59 am

I was doing WOT and then the truck starts slipping. A the truck was moving slow while I can hear the engine revving up.

I checked the diffs, drive cup grub screws, even replaced the slipper pad and clutch shoes..so I'm thinking maybe it's the tranny.

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Post by Squid » Mon Nov 23, 2015 8:23 am

Check the bushing in the center of the spur. If the slipper has gotten hot, the bushing gets hot and melts into the slipper. Then no matter how tight you set the slipper nut, it will not be "tight". The nut will be tight, but the spring will not be compressed. The only fix is a new spur. That is assuming you are running a plastic spur.
After that, the clutch itself should be looked at.
From what you are saying, there is a very small chance it is something inside the tranny. It's all gears in there driving the truck, there won't be any "slipping" unless there are teeth missing from a gear, or a pin has broken. But that would be notchy, and IMO show up on take off not at high speed.

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Post by JmaesV » Tue Dec 01, 2015 5:34 am

Well I tightened the slipper clutch all the way through and so far, my truck is running good again. I tested it with 2 full tanks of fuel and my LRP 32 engine is pushing the truck the way it should...got the power back!

It's weird, because the first thing I did before taking apart the tranny and diffs was to check the slipper clutch and I even replaced it with a new pad. I guess the problem was that I loosened the slipper nut based on the factory specs which is 1/2 turn loose from all the way tight.

Wondering who else experienced slipper clutch issues running an LRP or similar aftermarket engine? How's your slipper clutch setup?

Also, now Im thinking about replacing the stock slipper clutch to the Robinson Racing Gen 3 slipper unit. I have this for my Revo and it's been solid so far.

Any thoughts about that? or negative issue with keeping the slipper tight.

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Post by Squid » Tue Dec 01, 2015 5:46 am

Any engine I have had that is not stock, I have tightened the slipper and backed off only slightly, maybe 1 flat on the nut.

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SiNiST3R
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Post by SiNiST3R » Tue Dec 01, 2015 11:27 am

If my slipper is not fully tight it spins loose & thats with a ZR30. I can't talk about the stock mills. I tried backing off just a 1/4 turn but nope it spun loose with a new pad and spur. It's fully tightenned up but not torqued. So far so good.
[url=http://s27.photobucket.com/user/Rac3rXGT4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/signature%20new%20shrunk.jpg.html][img]http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c176/Rac3rXGT4/Mobile%20Uploads/signature%20new%20shrunk.jpg[/img][/url]

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Post by JmaesV » Tue Dec 01, 2015 12:59 pm

Thanks guys!
I'm going to keep my slipper tight all the way through.

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Post by SiNiST3R » Fri Dec 04, 2015 7:08 am

Check out the

HEAVY DUTY CERAMIC SLIPPER CLUTCH PAD
[url=http://s27.photobucket.com/user/Rac3rXGT4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/signature%20new%20shrunk.jpg.html][img]http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c176/Rac3rXGT4/Mobile%20Uploads/signature%20new%20shrunk.jpg[/img][/url]

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Post by JmaesV » Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:11 pm

Thanks, I'll also order a pair of those HPI ceramic slipper pads...
I'm curios if anybody tried the Robinson Racing Gen 3 slipper units for the Savage?

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Post by SiNiST3R » Fri Dec 04, 2015 9:10 pm

Yeah I tried Robinson, my experience was tossing chunks of teeth off the slipper on either side.

Image

Not sure what "Gen" tho, but HPI HD Spurs work

IMO its too fat for the wobbly slipper unit, as smooth as it looks its never true and the fat teeth of the Robinson are no good. The Hard Steel HPI Spurs are perfect thickness and work perfect with HPI vented clutch bells, if it ain't broken no need to fix it. HS HPI on Vented HPI is tried tested and works.
[url=http://s27.photobucket.com/user/Rac3rXGT4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/signature%20new%20shrunk.jpg.html][img]http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c176/Rac3rXGT4/Mobile%20Uploads/signature%20new%20shrunk.jpg[/img][/url]

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Post by JmaesV » Sun Dec 13, 2015 4:18 pm

I'll just stick with the HPI ceramic clutch pads

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