Doing a ripped paint job (illustrated)

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Doing a ripped paint job (illustrated)

Post by sfgascott » Mon Jan 12, 2004 8:33 pm

In this post I will take you step by step through the process of doing a ripped paint job. This is by no means THE way to do it, but it's the way I do it. I will give you some insight as to what challenges you may run across and some simple fixes. This is a fairly easy type of paint job to do, but it will take some time. I did this over a period of three days. The reason it takes so long is that you need the colors to dry completely before proceding to the next step. I will not cover how to trim and cut a body, but I will on my next project.

After the body is trimmed, cut, and washed thoroughly, the masking can begin. Since we are going for a ripped effect, we need to burnish the masking tape by pressing it down to the lexan more than you normally would. This insures a good rip when you begin to tear the tape. Here are some pics of the initial masking.
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Ok, since this will be a three color rip, you need to paint the darkest color first, then progress to the lightest color. This helps insure that you won't have color bleeding. The next few pics were taken shortly after the black has been applied. I used Pactra #RC250 Outlaw Black (rattle cans).
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Nearly every time I mask a body, I find some part of the mask that didn't get burnished down good and I get a little underspray. Here is how I fix it. Take a Q-Tip and break one end off. Then dip it in some denatured alcohol and scrub the area until it is cleaned up to my liking. This is the underside of the body. I laid it down on top of a paper towel so you could see it better. With the exception of the minor booboo, my rip job turned out pretty good here, it looks like the paper towel is ripped- but it's not.
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Ok, after letting the black paint dry overnight, now it's time to mask again. At this stage I am masking off and exposing the parts of the body for the next color. Here you can see why you really need to burnish the masking tape down. When you rip the tape, the torn edge sticks to the lexan. If you were to rip the tape first, half of the tape would tear from the top, and half from the bottom.
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You can use two pieces of masking tape easily while ripping as it is hard to tell where one ends and the other begins.
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All masked off and ready to paint.
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Now here we have the second color applied with the masking still in place. For the second color, I used Pactra #RC281 Fluorescent Green. Peel the masking off, clean up any mistakes, and allow to dry.
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Now the second coat has dried pretty good, spray the third color on the remaining unpainted surfaces. For the third color, I used Pactra #RC279 Fluorescent Yellow. Notice that the paint is still somewhat transparent. This is common with many paints like fluorescents, candies, and many metallics, as the backing will really make the color "pop out"
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Now the third color was allowed to dry overnight and this morning the white fluorescent covercoat was applied. I used Pactra #RC290. This will make the fluorescent colors really come alive, and the top coat is imperative if you plan on using spray window tint (Pactra #RC294).
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Now it's time to remove all of the window masks except for the windshield. I'm leaving the windshield mask on because I will be tinting the windows. Here is how I remove the masks. Take your exacto knife and pierce the mask a few millimeters from the edge and lift up. This way you won't risk messing up the edge of the mask and take some paint off by accident. After the masks are removed, let the topcoat dry overnight.
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Ok, I got it all decaled out and mounted it on the chassis. Here are a few pics of my new creation taken just before I started bashing with it today.
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Scott
Last edited by sfgascott on Thu Aug 25, 2005 10:17 pm, edited 5 times in total.
[color=indigo][size=150]Bashing in Tuttle, Oklahoma[/size][/color]
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CRSMP5
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Post by CRSMP5 » Mon Jan 12, 2004 9:30 pm

:D

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Post by SavageNYawker » Tue Jan 13, 2004 2:48 pm

Wow this is just what I needed thanks for posting your illistrated guide.

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Post by Corrado » Wed Jan 14, 2004 12:29 am

CRS, I now see why you wanted me to wait to paint the mini, could provide with some new ideas, now I need to think color...
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Post by Beaner242 » Sat Jan 17, 2004 9:24 pm

Nice job, cant wait to see the end product. I really enjoy painting these things, not that good at but its fun. Wish I could afford more bodies. :D
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Post by sfgascott » Sun Jan 18, 2004 6:08 pm

Ok guys I got it all finished up and started bashing with it today! :twisted:

Let me know what you think!

Scott
[color=indigo][size=150]Bashing in Tuttle, Oklahoma[/size][/color]
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Post by SavageNYawker » Sun Jan 18, 2004 6:27 pm

Nice update on the paint job looking good to bad youve got to bash it.

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Post by Corrado » Sun Jan 18, 2004 6:35 pm

Looks real good scott...
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Post by Matt » Sun Jan 18, 2004 7:05 pm

Looks great. Got a question though. Do you rip the tape with it applied to the body? Just go really slow? The rip lines look so sharp. Very nice Never did a paint job like that. Might have to for when racing starts come spring.....Matt
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Post by sfgascott » Sun Jan 18, 2004 7:09 pm

Yeah, you apply the masking tape and burnish it down real good so that when you rip the tape, it tears from the top and not the bottom. You can see what I'm talking about in the ninth pic down.

Scott
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Post by nodnarb22 » Sun Jan 18, 2004 9:25 pm

do you remove t he masking tape the day after the paint has dryed for 24 hrs? How long did it take you to paint the body. start to finish?..looks good AND what did you use for the tint?

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Post by sfgascott » Sun Jan 18, 2004 9:38 pm

I remove the masking tape about an hour (or less) after I paint. This was a 3-day job, although I waited until this morning to decal it. I cut the body, masked, and painted the black on day one. Day two I masked and painted the second color. Day three I painted the third color in the morning, and backed it with the covercoat that night. I used pactra window tint #RC294 the following day. So the paint (not including the window tint) took three days. I normally stretch a paint job out over at least a one week period unless I am just bored. Gearing up to paint 2 different 1972 chevy truck bodies next. One for me and one for a guy I work with who is getting my recently aquired T-Maxx.

Scott
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Post by MoldyMarvin » Mon Jan 19, 2004 10:50 pm

Nice job Scott, I need as many lessons as I can get... :lol:

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Post by OBEYgiant » Tue Feb 24, 2004 11:12 am

This is a great post! It needs to be 'sticky' so peeps can find it easily!! Great job!!!

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Post by Nefarious » Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:11 pm

good post! I'm trying to decide on a paint job and this may be the ticket!

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Post by savagemania » Mon Apr 12, 2004 12:24 am

Scott,

Looks GREAT. Very nice, good choice of colors and placement of tears (I like the touch on the bedside).

Fantastic illustrations and directions.

Thanks,

Mark

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Post by daztowler » Sun Jul 11, 2004 3:08 pm

That has to be one of the best paint jobs ive seen so far thats easy to do without an airbrush .... and its a wlakthrough too ... double bonus !
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Post by sfgascott » Sun Jul 11, 2004 6:08 pm

Thanks! You should see this body now. :lol: I've knocked about half the paint off of it but the body is still in good shape! No cracks or splits. This has been one of the toughest bodies I have ever had.

Scott
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Post by biggiesavage » Wed Jul 14, 2004 9:20 pm

how many rattle cans did you use? is one can enough for a 3 color paintjob?thanks

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Post by sfgascott » Wed Jul 14, 2004 9:41 pm

You can paint 2-3 bodies with one can of paint. I used black, fluorescent yellow, fluorescent green, white covercoat, and window tint on this one, so I used parts of 5 cans.

Scott
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