Newbie to Body Painting - Have a Preparation Question, plus?

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rlanza1054
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Newbie to Body Painting - Have a Preparation Question, plus?

Post by rlanza1054 » Sun Oct 27, 2013 3:28 pm

Hi all,

Newbie here, Rob.

Ok background, have my first RC, the Savage Flux HP.  Maybe you've read my introduction thread.

So while I'm waiting for my ESC and Motor to be replaced after a spectacular flame out, I purchased a new body shell (I had ordered the body shell before the ESC got destroyed) and am using the withdrawal time to paint my first body shell.

Everyone here had posted links to some terrific 'How to Paint RC's and I've watched enough that I feel comfortable getting it started.

There is one question in the preparation I'm trying to resolve first. (I went through the Body Shop thread and did not find my question.)

In one or two videos they talk about lightly sanding the inside of the body shell before washing.

In other videos they don't mention sanding the body shell first.

If I am supposed to sand it, wouldn't that make the paint end up looking less shiny when done or show the sanding marks?

The people that talked about the sanding said its so the paint sticks better.

Just for added info, I purchased the Chevrolet EL Camino SS Body (7177).

I got the Testors Amazing Air Airbrush Paint Set (for beginners I believe).

I purchased Testors Acrylic Paint which says on the box for Auto Body.

I purchased Testors Ultra Bright Fluroescents Enamel.

I'm not sure if these Testors paint are OK on this Body Shell which I am assuming is a Lexon shell.

I purchased a can of Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter. I'm not sure if this is good for these Lexon body shells or should even be used?

I purchased Pactra RC Car Paints in a variety of colors (funny just checked the cans, when I ordered thru Towerhobbies it said Pactra Polycarb paint (which is required from the video lessons) but the actual cans say Lacquer Racing Finish. I hope that's OK.

And lastly, in regards to the decals that came with the body shell.

I have assumed that we paint the inside (as opposed to the outside) to protect the paint job and give it a nice clear coat protection.

But the decals that came with my Savage and now with this body shell seem to go on the outside of the body shell, going by how you peel it off the coated paper.

That would mean the decals are not protected from scratches?

Shouldn't they go on first on the inside? Is there a way to do that? Is it recommended?

Am I misunderstanding the installation of these decals? The video lessons didn't talk about applying decals.

Ok that was my beginner questions.

Thank you.

Rob
[color=blue]Robert L
Astoria Queens NYC
HPI Savage Flux HP
Newbie - my first RC!
Reason for getting Savage, my dog Dylan[/color]

[img]http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/rlanza1054/HPI%20Savage%20Flux%20HP/robl-signature101_zps0eeb5f87-1.jpg[/img]

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Post by iwaslikedayum » Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:50 pm

The surface prepping part of your question has a few answers.

1:  a) If you use the Pactra paint, which is lexan specific paint made by Testors, simply washing the inside of the body with the rough side of your dish sponge and dish soap is sufficient.

    b) Using auto paint is where adhesion becomes way more important. I would definitely use the promoter in that case and it becomes even more important when using rattle can (aerosol) paint because it is extremely thin. Aerosol can paint is in the ballpark of 70% thinner 30% paint, where as airbrush paint is 100% paint unless otherwise specified. A good ratio I've observed is: 4oz. of aerosol paint = 1oz. airbrush paint.

Decals:

All the decals except for the window mask will be external.
If you want to do your own emblems and/or lettering there are loads upon loads of masking decals that go on the inside of the body that can be found on ebay. Search: rc paint mask

I use an airbrush with Spaz Stix paints and a combination of Bob Divelly's liquid mask and custom masking I get from my local sign/design shop.
[img]http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a526/iwaslikedayum/138981911153274_zps27f19f55.jpg[/img]

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Post by rlanza1054 » Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:44 pm

[quote="iwaslikedayum";p="874147"]The surface prepping part of your question has a few answers.

1:
[color=blue]Robert L
Astoria Queens NYC
HPI Savage Flux HP
Newbie - my first RC!
Reason for getting Savage, my dog Dylan[/color]

[img]http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/rlanza1054/HPI%20Savage%20Flux%20HP/robl-signature101_zps0eeb5f87-1.jpg[/img]

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Post by iwaslikedayum » Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:25 pm

As long as you're using lexan paint you won't need the adhesion promoter.

I really like to wash the shell with the non-stick pan friendly dish scrubbing sponge, dry it with a blow dryer and get the first coat of liquid mask on in as quick a succession as possible.
Having already placed the window mask, you've got a couple options.
1)Go with it, and just use thin coats with good distancing and smooth speed to keep the paint from running. Using an airbrush, this is far less critical since you can practice on a plastic coke bottle with air pressure and needle size and trigger pull to insure the paint won't run.
2)Pull the window mask off re-wash with the scrub pad and cut your own windows in the liquid mask.
I'm afraid the scrub pad may harm your mask and the adhesion promoter surely will.

I buy my paints from ebay seller gonitrohobbies. Their combined product/shipping cost is the best. $4.95 for the first paint and $1 for each additional, with paint prices from $5 to $9 for the crazy color change stuff. I got my Bob Divelly from ebay seller Omnimodels which is Tower on ebay. That price you quoted sounds right though.
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Post by rlanza1054 » Mon Oct 28, 2013 7:21 pm

[quote="iwaslikedayum";p="874173"]As long as you're using lexan paint you won't need the adhesion promoter.

I really like to wash the shell with the non-stick pan friendly dish scrubbing sponge, dry it with a blow dryer and get the first coat of liquid mask on in as quick a succession as possible.
Having already placed the window mask, you've got a couple options.
1)Go with it, and just use thin coats with good distancing and smooth speed to keep the paint from running. Using an airbrush, this is far less critical since you can practice on a plastic coke bottle with air pressure and needle size and trigger pull to insure the paint won't run.
2)Pull the window mask off re-wash with the scrub pad and cut your own windows in the liquid mask.
I'm afraid the scrub pad may harm your mask and the adhesion promoter surely will.

I buy my paints from ebay seller gonitrohobbies. Their combined product/shipping cost is the best. $4.95 for the first paint and $1 for each additional, with paint prices from $5 to $9 for the crazy color change stuff. I got my Bob Divelly from ebay seller Omnimodels which is Tower on ebay. That price you quoted sounds right though.[/quote]

Ok, here is what I'm going to per your recommendations.

I'm going to carefully remove the windows masks. And see if they can be reapplied.

I already ordered the 32oz of Bob Dively. I see you did not tell me to go ahead and use the FasMask stuff. That will get put in the closet or maybe can be used up by applying it as a second or third coat over the Bob Dively stuff.

And I will definitely rewash, because you have made it clear that I need to rough up the surface a little bit.

So we are talking about using those 3M sponges that have a yellow sponge with a green scrubby on one side? My original question was that I was concerned that that scrubby side will scratch the plastic so much that you will end up seeing this scratch marks.  That green pad is generally used on pots and pans instead of a Brillo pad.

If you are saying to use that, I will use an older sponge so it doesn't have that much bite to it.

One thing as you can see from the picture I posted in the previous message, is that this shell has a flat bed area (somewhat like the original shell that comes with the Savage) but its not a flat surface it has ridges like the potato chips that have ridges (I forgot the name of the potato chip).

So it will be hard to sand or rough up in between the ridges.

Rob

And if I need more paint, I will look at the website you listed.  I really don't want to learn that air brush this time around.  The can of air for the air brush came today. Maybe I will take a look and possibly test it out.  Really, a plastic soda bottle is the same material?

Thanks again.
[color=blue]Robert L
Astoria Queens NYC
HPI Savage Flux HP
Newbie - my first RC!
Reason for getting Savage, my dog Dylan[/color]

[img]http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/rlanza1054/HPI%20Savage%20Flux%20HP/robl-signature101_zps0eeb5f87-1.jpg[/img]

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Post by iwaslikedayum » Mon Oct 28, 2013 7:53 pm

Yeah, you're right on with the dish pad. Don't worry too much about getting down in the grooves of the bed.

And yeah, the coke bottle is the same stuff. You can also use pieces you've trimmed away from the body to practice on. I use transparent paper to practice and get my airbrush spraying right. (the sheets used for overhead projectors)

Here's my most recent work. Very simple scheme. This is supposed to be my bash body. It's coming out way lighter in the pics than it really is. It's Candy Rootbeer.
Image
Image
Image

Be sure to trim and drill your mount holes before you paint.
[img]http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a526/iwaslikedayum/138981911153274_zps27f19f55.jpg[/img]

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Post by rlanza1054 » Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:05 pm

[quote="iwaslikedayum";p="874206"]Yeah, you're right on with the dish pad. Don't worry too much about getting down in the grooves of the bed.

Be sure to trim and drill your mount holes before you paint.[/quote]

Wow, that beautiful!

Guess what, it looks like the same color I'm going to using!
[color=blue]Robert L
Astoria Queens NYC
HPI Savage Flux HP
Newbie - my first RC!
Reason for getting Savage, my dog Dylan[/color]

[img]http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/rlanza1054/HPI%20Savage%20Flux%20HP/robl-signature101_zps0eeb5f87-1.jpg[/img]

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Post by iwaslikedayum » Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:25 pm

Cutting after you've painted can possibly damage the paint.
You may get away with it. I just don't risk it. All that prep, cutting liquid mask (painstaking), then the painting. If I cracked the paint cutting it...     I seriously may commit murders.Lol

I don't know about that Fasmask firsthand, but it gets some pretty bad reviews. I hear it hardens up pretty quickly where as with Bob's you can let it sit a week. Parma even uses Bob's in one of their own how to paint videos.
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Post by rlanza1054 » Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:57 pm

[quote="iwaslikedayum";p="874211"]Cutting after you've painted can possibly damage the paint.
You may get away with it. I just don't risk it. All that prep, cutting liquid mask (painstaking), then the painting. If I cracked the paint cutting it...
[color=blue]Robert L
Astoria Queens NYC
HPI Savage Flux HP
Newbie - my first RC!
Reason for getting Savage, my dog Dylan[/color]

[img]http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/rlanza1054/HPI%20Savage%20Flux%20HP/robl-signature101_zps0eeb5f87-1.jpg[/img]

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Post by rlanza1054 » Fri Nov 01, 2013 11:24 pm

Hi Iwaslikedayum,

The Bob Dively Liquid Mask (32oz) came today, a lot fast than I expected.

Today I spent the time installing my replacement ESC and Motor.

So tomorrow, I will do a fast clean (the shell has just been sitting here collecting dust) and apply the first coat of the liquid mask.

At least I can read the label on this bottle, so I will know how many coats to apply.

Let's see how this goes from here.

Thanks again

Rob
[color=blue]Robert L
Astoria Queens NYC
HPI Savage Flux HP
Newbie - my first RC!
Reason for getting Savage, my dog Dylan[/color]

[img]http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/rlanza1054/HPI%20Savage%20Flux%20HP/robl-signature101_zps0eeb5f87-1.jpg[/img]

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Post by rlanza1054 » Sat Nov 02, 2013 5:46 pm

[quote="iwaslikedayum";p="874211"]Parma even uses Bob's in one of their own how to paint videos.[/quote]

A quick question before I begin with the Bob Dilvey, the instructions on the bottle say to spray it on?

All the videos I watched just brush it on.

How do you apply it?

Thanks

Rob
[color=blue]Robert L
Astoria Queens NYC
HPI Savage Flux HP
Newbie - my first RC!
Reason for getting Savage, my dog Dylan[/color]

[img]http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/rlanza1054/HPI%20Savage%20Flux%20HP/robl-signature101_zps0eeb5f87-1.jpg[/img]

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Post by iwaslikedayum » Sat Nov 02, 2013 6:53 pm

Brushing on is fine. Although I use an airbrush to paint and even have a nozzle/needle that would handle the Bob's just fine, my airbrush compressor won't push it.

I brush it on with a cheap 1" brush. I do 3 coats, the first heavy and the next 2 medium.

I paint the smallest pieces first.
[img]http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a526/iwaslikedayum/138981911153274_zps27f19f55.jpg[/img]

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