Moldy's Project Twin

Not your average Savage Hop ups. These are highly modified, with some home-made parts.

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MoldyMarvin
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Moldy's Project Twin

Post by MoldyMarvin » Fri Apr 25, 2003 4:20 pm

8) ...Coming soon!... 8)
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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Fri Apr 25, 2003 8:26 pm

    Hello to all interested in this project,please bear with me as I am new to posting and cant type,I peck the keys like a freaking chicken! OK , here goes.... The TVPs are New Era's Extended TVPs,They give you more room to work with,more room for exhaust manifolds,are thicker at 3.2 mm,and hopefully will help to keep the front end down.Also used are New Era's shock towers for their rigidity. All aluminum plates and square stock are 6061-T6,which I got from "metalshopper.com",They will ship small quantitys and will cut pieces to within 1/8 inch.They ship promptly and I highly recommend them.

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Fri Apr 25, 2003 9:06 pm

    I replaced the original HPI engine plate # 86069 with one I fabricated from a 3&1/8 x 6 inch 2mm thick plate(I had orderd several of these).I used the original eng. plate as a template which helped a lot.The finished eng. plate is approx. 5&3/4 inch long.An additional "HPI Engine Mount Brace" # 86063 was also used,The TVPs must be drilled for mounting the brace.I will tell you that a lot of careful measuring is required!! I used an ordinary jigsaw for cutting.A "Benchtop Drill Press"and a "Benchtop Belt Sander"is all but mandatory to get decent results and keep frustration to a minimum! See Pic

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Fri Apr 25, 2003 9:07 pm

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sat Apr 26, 2003 12:09 am

    :) Thanx for the kind words guys.... The "Vertical Eng. Plate"is 3.2mm thick and 4&3/4 in. tall by 4&1/8 in. long. I braced the plate with 1/4 inch square bar at the front,back,and bottom edges,bolts are 3mm dia. Bolts that attach "Vert. Eng. Plate" to bottom or "Horizontal Eng. Plate" are 4mm dia. Front and rear "End Plates" are 2mm thick,bolts are 3mm dia. The front "End Plate" has a 1/4 bar at bottom/front to facilitate mounting to the "Horizontal Eng.Plate",bolts are 3mm dia. The rear "End Plate" is drilled to accept all shock positions,shock bolts extend through the "EndPlate" ,bolts are stock HPI. Again careful measuring is required. OK, we're through the tedious part. Gets more interesting from here!...next is engine mounting...see pics....

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sat Apr 26, 2003 12:11 am

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sat Apr 26, 2003 12:12 am

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sat Apr 26, 2003 12:14 am

    :arrow:
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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sat Apr 26, 2003 7:46 pm

    Nitro Stars are used for several reasons, I already had one so only needed one more(keeps cost down), easy starting , reliable idle, basically trouble free. To mount the engines I used Ofna # 30480 eng. mounts, plus 4 fabricated adapter plates. The adapter plates are 3.2mm thick and 1&1/2 x 1 inch. When drilling these plates I marked and drilled them in pairs to help keep the holes lined up (Top plates together bottom together). After drilling the holes that attach the plate to the eng. mounts I used a Craftsman 1/2 in."Countersink Bit" # 67164 to countersink the holes. The countersunk screws are 5mm x 10 mm stainless steel,the 4 through the plate bolts are 4mm x approx 16mm( I often buy bolts longer than needed then cut to size)with locknuts. I got these bolts and screws from a local "Nut and Bolt Supply" store. I used a pair of Vise Grip C Clamps to hold the engines in place while positioning and marking holes for drilling the "Vertical Engine Plate". On the left side engine I rotated the pullstart 180 degrees (1/2 way around), this leaves two spots for the screws and the option to drill and tap a third. I am only using the two. Rotating the pullstart leaves an opening where dirt and debris can enter the pullstart, so I made a debris shield out of .016 aluminum sheet that I got from the LHS.......See Pics.... 8)

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sat Apr 26, 2003 7:48 pm

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sat Apr 26, 2003 7:49 pm

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    Post by Loki007420 » Sat Apr 26, 2003 9:11 pm

    what are you doing for exhaust? which way they pointing!!
    Go Big or Go Home!!

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sun Apr 27, 2003 12:55 am

    :) The rear center shaft is from New Era

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sun Apr 27, 2003 12:57 am

    Radio Box: I moved the receiver to the center servo bay,moved the switch to the right side of the box behind the steering servo bay (it just takes a little drilling and carving), also made a bezel for the switch from .016 aluminum sheet. I inverted the throttle/brake servo, I used the spacers on the parts tree that come with the savage, they are part of the radio box set # 85061. I used two spacers on each end of the servo to get the right height. Bolts for servo are 3mm dia. Made a cut out in the forward end of the throttle servo bay for the charge lead. I used a dremel with a heavy duty cut-off wheel to cut off the upper part of the radio box top, I cut it off even with the shoulder area,( this is more like half cutting half melting,I went through several cut-off wheels). To cover the cut-out I used 016 aluminum sheet.....See Pics.... :D

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sun Apr 27, 2003 12:58 am

    Image :!:
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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sun Apr 27, 2003 1:00 am

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sun Apr 27, 2003 1:01 am

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sun Apr 27, 2003 1:03 am

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sun Apr 27, 2003 2:38 am

    Throttle/Brake linkage: The throttle arms are "CBA/Tatone" 3/32 nose gear arms for RC aircraft(used 3). The rod that connects each side is K&S 3/32 stainless steel rod(from LHS). The rod passes through theTVPs in existing holes,I enlarged the holes to 1/8 in. I heatshrinked the rod to insulate from metal to metal contact. Used 2 stock linkage rods #86101a, used 4-40 threaded pushrod up to servo arm, used stock brake rod and brake arm, yellow sliders are Ofna,used long Dubro servo arm....See Pics....

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    Post by MoldyMarvin » Sun Apr 27, 2003 2:39 am

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