Projekt Paris

Not your average Savage Hop ups. These are highly modified, with some home-made parts.

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phiver
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Re: Projekt Paris

Post by phiver » Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:16 pm

Well, i decided to give the 30 k front and 10k for the rear diff.

i did fill the ?diffs, with gears in, 70%-80% full, also did grease the internals before and added an extra topping of grease to it after filling the diff oil in.
Image
DELICIOUS ?:D
edit:
i did open the diff
Last edited by phiver on Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:04 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Post by phiver » Sat Mar 08, 2008 11:33 pm

Image

i like these looks...

Image
complete ti-chassis from hardcore-racing

if you like ti-stuff get lunsford or hardcore-racing or new era,
BUT NEVER from GPM the ti from them is complete bulls..., i had the hinge pins and cvd
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Post by phiver » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:02 am

that?s also nice!

2 x GPM SAV1011 - HPI SAVAGE 21 ALLOY FRONT/REAR GEAR BOX MOUNT WITH SCREWS - 1PR SET

Image
i call it silver bullet edition

Image
a good thing is, i can clearly see if it
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Post by phiver » Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:39 pm

here we are at last, ready for break in:

new engine with adapterpiece from masterfix-header to inline-pipe. vented flywheel/clutchbell with black hpi shoes
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luckily the pressure nipple fits nicely into the side of the threespeed gearbox

new gearboxes for diffs and threespeed with ceramic nitride bearings inside
Image
on the wheels i decided to use cleaned stock bearings  for bashing purpose

some adjustment to the linkage was necessary since i don
Last edited by phiver on Fri May 23, 2008 7:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by phiver » Fri May 23, 2008 7:29 am

Image

my setup for track oriented activities:
diff fluid: front 30k, rear 10k
shock oil: front 15wt, rear 20wt
springs: hpi green
rims: rpm spider offset
tires: proline badlands

Image
i want a desert truck body now...

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Post by phiver » Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:38 am

Image

dirty? *censored*!

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Post by tokie » Mon Jun 08, 2009 12:09 pm

back from the ashes  :lol:

any updates?

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Post by phiver » Mon Jun 08, 2009 1:14 pm

Not yet, i'm pretty satisfied as it is but will add the BIG BORES sooner or later as I have them lying around, also waiting are two new Bodies.

The plan is to use the plastic dampers for big air only and the big bores as a racing/driving setup!?

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Post by KiZ » Mon Jun 08, 2009 6:40 pm

phiver, you are so weird  :lol:
[url=http://www.kizzard.net/gallery/][img]http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r56/kizzzard/gray-sav.gif[/img][/url]

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Post by phiver » Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:26 am

i'm getting used to hearing that, so maybe it's true, but thank you anyway. ? :lol:

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Post by phiver » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:03 pm

can i make my own 6400 views post?

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Post by phiver » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:20 pm

that was also my 50 th answer, extra special:

get a picture of paris



fake link- rofl i'm having fun now
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Post by I-Hate-Traxxas » Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:09 pm

I would like to see it with the big bores
Savage [color=red]w/Custom Mid Plate/Custom Battery Stop/Custom Battery Plate/Aftershock Shocks/XL TVPs/Fastlane towers/Alum. diff cases/Alum. diff cups/Integy rear carriers/HPI carbon fiber arm braces[/color]...Im not done yet! (Build in Process)

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Post by phiver » Wed Nov 25, 2009 5:54 am

rest assured, i-hate-traxxas, i would never withhold the pictures from you guys. ;))

i planned that, plus two new bodies, for the 2010 season.
and also to be the last and finishing parts for projekt paris...

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Post by phiver » Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:50 pm

shocking news about paris

In the hand scribbled legal papers obtained by Hollywoods TMZ website, Mr Ramiro Benitez alleges the blonde has threatened him both sexually, physically and financially.
He is now reportedly demanding the court to order Hilton to keep 100 yards away from him at all times, including his home, workplace, sons school and his car. Included in the mans shocking request to the court house, is reportedly a plea to prevent Paris using stun guns and objects of some kind on him.


well, i have found the perfect solution for this harassment:

Image

tie her up with a microphone cable and put her in pink jail, allright? (just watch the pic)

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Post by phiver » Fri Jul 02, 2010 5:33 am

aloha savage central, thanks for the many views!


finally i got the parts and tools i need for my next mod, so what do we have here

the new tank: aquacraft AQUB9508 180ccm vs Ho Bao Fuel Tank 87076 120ccm
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the smaller hobao is clearly the more quality piece.
also it has a strukture inside to dampen the movement of the fuel.
thats something i want to have, so i will think of something to get that feature on the new tank.
or maybe you have an idea?

the new front-chassis parts and the shortened header
Image
on top you can see the frontplate made of 1mm alu sheet
beneath there are the 4 added braces. i used the old 86063 and the newer x-style 86079
they come with 3mm vertical threads and 4mm horizontal (side) threads
for the steering posts i needed to cut a 4mm vertical thread, i used a single tap cutter which did go quite well
and for fixing them to the chassis i had to drill the tvp's to take 4mm screws (wow, that ti is so hard)
the rear braces are double layer to get the plate more or less horizontal, it will an extra long 3mm screw to bind them together.
the header and pipe are shortened each by 2mm, so it will have, more or less, the original length again.

i want to make a remark, on bending sheet alu in a clamp, here
Image
first thing is, i do not put the marking line for the bend directly on the edge of the clamp, because there will be a radius, i put the marking about 2mm over the edge.
second, the red marking shows where the lenghts of the one side of the plate would collide with the clamp, to get a little more distance i used a additional aluplate as edge to bend over.
another thing i noticed is, that the alu would eventually break in the bending process, so i heated it up with a flame and voila, no breaking anymore.
first i bend with hands and then i use a hammer (tape the head so you wont have srcatches) for the finishing touch.

the plate is ready
Image
dimensions of the 1mm alu: 7x15cm
screws:
2pcs M4x15 (front brace)
2pcs M3x15 (double brace)
2pcs M3x8 (top brace)

first the the readybent plate is placed on the braces in the intended position and checked if everything fits.
(first i used a cardboard version of the plate)
then i removed the front/rear gearbox, the engine and the threespeed to have free access to the front parts

i place the cutouts of the savage-x braces so that they can be used like a cable channel.
Image
before starting to drill the holes for the screws the positions should be marked:
#front brace: with a 3mm drill through the 4mm threads (just short only to leave a mark)
#double brace: first fix the frontbrace with the 2pcs M4x15. then put a M3x15 through the double brace and apply pressure on the alu plate so the screw leaves a marking where the drilling is then done.
turn the screws completely, so that they leave a fullcirceled marking on the alu, there you can center the drill better.
#top brace: same method as for the double brace.


next steps will involve the making of a new servomount for the steeringservo (from corner mould again) a connection rod to the steering assembly and placement of the electronics.

i'll be back...
Last edited by phiver on Wed Jul 21, 2010 6:56 am, edited 4 times in total.

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Post by phiver » Wed Jul 14, 2010 8:17 am

today i have finished the servo mounts

i start with cutting the corner mould
Image
i need 4 pieces which are 8mm broad

servomount detail
Image
as you can see, i added a little brace to support the sides of the servo
the space in which to mount the servo is marked with pencil along the braces when the plate is mounted to the chassis

finished setup with mounted servo
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it is crucial to mount the servo as far forward as possible to get over the front drive bone and have space to move the servo arm
edit:
as seen in the next post, it was necessary for me to use shims between servo and servo mount to get some distance between the servohorn and the center-front drivebone.
that can be avoided by placing the servomount more to the center than i did.
Last edited by phiver on Wed Aug 04, 2010 7:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by phiver » Wed Aug 04, 2010 7:53 am

aloha savage central,
i'm done now with the new steering linkage for project paris!

first, some distances from the steering servo:
Image
the inner side of the servohorn should be at least 47mm away from the left edge of the aluplate.
this is to have unrestricted movement of the servohorn with the head of the screw standing out plus some distance to the drive bone.
i had to use shims at the servomount because the servohorn was to close to the center-front drivebone with my mounting positions on the aluplate.

the steering linkage is made from the pieces which connect the shock shaft to the lower a-arms (85050)
they are connected with roughly 25mm threaded-rod of 3mm diameter
Image
the new linkage is 52mm long from end to end, the balls (85058) i took off the original steering linkage.
the servohorn should be about 16mm long, i took one which hitec supplied with its servos and cut it down.
the hitec servohorn seems rather flimsy to me, so i'm prepared to use an alu one if this one breaks eventually.
to mount the link it is necessary to unmount the steering pillar first.
i did use a m3x10mm screw to mount the link to the servohorn and the original m3x15 at the pillar side of the link.

the gearbox and frontdrive are installed on one tvp to see if everything fits.
Image
in neutral position the servohorn should be at 90 degrees angle and the wheelaxle straight with the top arm.

at full tilt left i have about 2-3mm distance between screw and servo.
full tilt right should be no problem exept you use a longer servo horn.
Image
the double brace is a nice and easy mod, all you need are two 86068(upper arm brace) or 86070 (lower arm brace)
also a mix of one each can be used to do that, just cut away some material of the retainer on the skidplate and fit the second brace on.

space between center-front cupjoint and servomount is also tight, that's why it is important to get the servo as far front as possible.
Image

with the 86063 enginemount brace from the s-25 at lower position it is necessary to dremel off some material above the cup joint.
Image
that is not the case, if you use the savage-x motormount braces (86079) at that position also.


well, that leaves me with mounting the tank and placing the electronics :)
Last edited by phiver on Fri Aug 06, 2010 7:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by KiZ » Wed Aug 04, 2010 9:59 am

Looking good! I wonder if you should perhaps try to find a better tank before mounting it though. I'm using the Ofna 250cc tank and like yours it has no internal baffles. I don't like it so much. I'd like to find a large tank with baffles and a clunk...
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Post by phiver » Fri Aug 06, 2010 7:18 am

250ccm is huge! the most companys make 150ccm tanks for bigblocks.

after all, the aquacraft aqub9508 is not so bad, it takes 180ccm, has a flat shape (which i think is good for lcg) it does actually have one 5mm high half circle shaped baffle surrounding the clunk.
but the best feature is, that the fuel nipple with fuel filter is removable and they are connected by a piece of silicon tube (thats the clunk i guess).
so it is possible to experiment with different filterpieces and positions if i experience problems with taking up fuel.

the other "big" tank i have is the mugen e0815 (150ccm), which has high and narrow shape, it has a small baffle in combination with a cone (ca. 1,5cm diameter and 1cm high)  sitting in front of it.
i bought it because there is a very clean midtank setup in combination with a cen radiobox but deceided to another way.
other nice tanks are the robitronic mantis tank, the hpi hellfire tank and the one for the associatet monster gt, these are all 150ccm though.

for me, the possibillity to place the receiver and electronics on the plate also, is very important.
it is very tight using the aquacraft, which is the biggest tank i know to allow me that (and i have a quite small receiver).
it shure would be no problem with the mugen tank because it is just 3cm wide comparing to 6cm of the aquacraft.

thats about all know concerning tanks, and for the baffles, i am shure that with some plastic pieces and 2 component glue there are ways to make your own baffles if necessary.

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