Project 65 edit *75*

Not your average Savage Hop ups. These are highly modified, with some home-made parts.

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LLkoolskillet
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Project 65 edit *75*

Post by LLkoolskillet » Wed Aug 29, 2012 4:10 pm

60 mph is the theme/ but the goal with this build is 65+mph. As most know Ive pretty much maxed out the XL chassis and I think Ive exhausted my motor, I still have a few tricks up my sleeve to push that last 0.8mph I need. Anyways I plan I getting another motor from Robin, This one will be a little more geared for a record run.

For this build I will utilize the same front and rear diffs on the current record breaking truck. The CEN/Hellfire 26/9t diffs. Basically I took the CEN ring gear and fit it to the Hellfire diff cup with 20/10t bevel gears. The 26/9t gearing has been proven to change the gearing like adding two teeth to the CB,
Last edited by LLkoolskillet on Sun Feb 24, 2013 7:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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dragonbat13
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Post by dragonbat13 » Wed Aug 29, 2012 5:59 pm

Are you gonna take all that metal where the x is on the stock TVP out for less weight?
Mark

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Wed Aug 29, 2012 8:16 pm

I'm going to have to in order to save weight but the design I don't know yet
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messiah1
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Post by messiah1 » Wed Aug 29, 2012 11:59 pm

Why not try some carbon fiber plates for the TVPs?  That would be a significant savings right there.  Of course, it'll cost, but you're looking for a serious record here.  Serious speed.  I'd say, get as much cf on there as possible.  Plates, shock towers, whatever you can.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Thu Aug 30, 2012 4:45 am

Oh dont worry, I have a special Carbon Fiber build already built in my head. BUT I need $500 to build it  :(  Maybe with my taxes the wifey will let me build it
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Post by bigbigbrig » Thu Aug 30, 2012 11:03 am

While you are working on your chassis plates you might want to make some shock towers.
If you make a shorter shock tower then you can use a shorter shock. That would save you some weight.
It would also get your center of gravity a little lower.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Thu Aug 30, 2012 11:08 am

Your correct and I am using shorter shocks, up front I have Losi D8T shocks with red hellfire springs on them and in the rear I'm using Hellfire big bore shocks with yellow rate springs. Yes I know red is stiffer but I mangled one red up in a crash lol. So I preloaded the crap out of the shocks and there so stiff that the rear end does not sag under load

I want the platinum RC lcg shock towers but don't feel like waiting months for them. I can make my own but that's a long process right now. In fact I could make the whole truck out of carbon fiber but people at work would get suspicious haha
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Post by LLkoolskillet » Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:37 pm

Today I decided to weigh my TVPs, both stock and custom. I was shocked when I saw the weight of my Blackout TVPs 8O even the new ones im making are hefty.
So in order to save weight I need to figure out how much things weight and where I can shave the weight. An all carbon fiber build would would ideal but its not going to take a 60mph curb hit. I would really like to make some carbon fiber LCG shock towers but I have a feeling there going to weigh around the same as the stock towers. Anyways heres some numbers

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Now I figure that the weight on my other Blackout TVPs is around 240g cause I have less material cut out. So im guessing they weight a wopping 468g. Thats over 1 pound in weight! When I converted to the stock flux chassis I saved 0.6lbs of weight. Thats alot for these trucks. What also shocked me was that the alloy shock towers, when you hold them in your hand they dont weigh that much. But there double the weight of the stock ones.

When it comes to TVPs, I want strength and light weight. Well alloy is going to be the choice for me. The Platinum EXT LCG TVPs weigh 160g(0.35) and my flux chassis 180g(0.39lb) Thats not a huge difference at all and not worth the time and headaches from ordering from Platinum.

Do anyone out there have carbon fiber shock towers from platinum? If so would you be able to weight them?

The biggest single mass of weight on the truck is the motor and pipe. Now there is nothing you can do to change the weight of the motor other than drill holes in the cooling fin. But the pipe can be changed. However if you want the best you need ERCM the endbleed weight 63 or 65g If I remember. Dont to worry Robin took care of me in the weight department  :wink:
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Post by Purenitro » Mon Oct 15, 2012 4:53 pm

Lightest ERCM pipe known to man :lol:
Click for Performance Tuning Guide
[url=http://www.extremercmods.com/?page=tuning][img]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/purenitro/National.jpg[/img][/url]
[url=http://www.youtube.com/user/purenitro?feature=mhsn][b][size=150]Videos[/size][/b][/url]

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Mon Oct 15, 2012 7:44 pm

:twisted: oh I can't wait dude....
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Post by johny723 » Mon Oct 15, 2012 7:50 pm

At that speed, I would also try to make the bodyshell aerodynamic. Except for making the car light. Air resistance is getting serious when you run that fast.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:45 pm

The issue I face with running the body on is the motor gets hot cause there is no air flow to cool it. I'm thinking of something to cover the front of the truck but not raise up above the motor. Basically allowing the motor to be the tallest part other than the roll bar. There will be some trial and error but I'm open to all sorts of body ideas.
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Post by FluxNZ » Mon Oct 15, 2012 10:13 pm

Do you ever sleep with all these idea's bouncing around inside your head?  :lol:
Savage Flux HP - Mild Mods.
Savage Flux 5SC/5T - Custom built.
HotBodies VE8.

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Post by bigbigbrig » Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:57 pm

You can shave some weight off of your shock towers.
If you use the far inside shock mounting holes you can sand off the other two holes.
Its not much weight but anything is a help when shooting for 65mph.
Also what shocks are you running.
You might want to look into aluminum screws. Alot of the chassis plate screws can be replaced with aluminum.
The engine mount screws and suspension screws should be steel.
Also don't paint anything. paint adds weight.

I know these things don't sound like much but a couple ounces here and there start to add up.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Tue Oct 16, 2012 4:46 am

[quote="FluxNZ";p="851717"]Do you ever sleep with all these idea's bouncing around inside your head?
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Post by LLkoolskillet » Fri Oct 19, 2012 4:34 pm

Once again I decided to weigh some more things in order to see where I can save the most weight. I was quite surprised with some of the results. Im sure some of you will also be surprised.

ERCM Endbleed with shortened Dynamite header

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Stock Battery box

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RPM A Arm

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Stock Savage X A Arm

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Stock upper A arm

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S/S adj A arm

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RPM 0deg A arm

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RPM -2deg A arm

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Homemade LCG shock tower

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I saved a total of 20g here by cutting the tops off the shock towers. Its not much but it does add up in the end.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Fri Oct 19, 2012 4:37 pm

With the way I had it setup verse how its set up now, Ive saved 78.8g which is 0.17lbs. Its not much but it will help. Im now running the RPM lower a arms with stock upper arm. Next I need to figure out how to eliminate the batt box without adding much weight with a replacement idea.
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Post by bigbigbrig » Fri Oct 19, 2012 5:36 pm

I'm glad to see that someone other than me has reworked the stock flux chassis plates to work on a nitro. What did you do about the rear drive cup hitting the engine plate? Also what engine plate are you using? As for the battery box. Could you use double sided tape to lock everything down and then lose the lid? That should save some weight.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Fri Oct 19, 2012 6:48 pm

Haha yes the flux TVPs were a little interesting to fab together to say the least. But I made them work. Not as clean as yours but they work. I'm using the savage XL motor plate that's been powder coated so it actually thicker than stock lol. As for the nightmare of the rear diff cup. I used the dremel to file away a groove into the plate. You can't use the rear motor plate brace cause it hits the dogbone but that's ok I used the FLM skid plate mounts to mount the rear. I had to make new mount locations for the rear but all in all it works and works well  :twisted:

My next option to save weight is taking the XL drive line out and put the X in. But I'll have to install the AE ext buggy style hexs on in order to keep my wide stance. Plus I want to take the XL motor plate out and drop in the lighter X plate. I'm hoping that with all these changes I can save about a half a pound. My goal is to get the truck into the 10lb range.

As for the batt box I do plan to either mount everything up FLM style or cut the crap out of the batt box. I have an idea in my head on how to trim weight off the batt box but Idk yet.  Basically the batt box is the last area I can save weight everything else has been changed.

Does anyone run the HD lightweight steel drive gear and idler gear for the savage. There the black gears that are supposed to be stronger than the stock ones. Hpi says they can be used with the flux so I wonder if they can be used with ERCM power.
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Post by bigbigbrig » Fri Oct 19, 2012 7:47 pm

I'm using the hpi lcg heatsink engine plate. It also needs a little dremel work to make it work. What battery pack are you using? You might be able to shave some weight by making a 4 AAA pack. They sell a 4 AAA battery holder at radio shack. Also home depot sells small peices of 1/4" lexan plastic. Might help with the battery box.

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