Sharkey's savage octane

Not your average Savage Hop ups. These are highly modified, with some home-made parts.

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johny723
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Re: Sharkey's savage octane

Post by johny723 » Wed Dec 25, 2013 6:12 pm

that is a great idea, just wait until he has finished the truck ! Can even imagine HPI attempting a sabotage on Sharkeys project :D

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Sharkey_t
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Post by Sharkey_t » Wed Dec 25, 2013 8:29 pm

oh i plan on sending hpi info about this build, although i doubt itll even get looked at. when i was at sema i talked to the guys in the traxxas booth about my twin nitro xo-1, i think everyone working in the booth stopped what they were doing and crowded around my phone to see the pics and videos.

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Sharkey_t
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Post by Sharkey_t » Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:47 am

well, being christmas i only worked half a day (long story), so i had a little time to work on the savage. i pulled the engine apart to have a look, here are a few pics, again, compared to parts from a k4.6

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this really gives you an idea on how big the engine is. it uses a cast iron sleeve with a ringed piston, so this engine is in for a long life.

so i started tonight by figuring out how im going to deal with the flywheel and clutch. the crank uses 5/16" threads, compare that to 6mm threads and 5mm where the clutch bell bearings ride on a typical sg style crank. i had to make a jig to put it in the lathe, and i found out with a fresh carbide i was able to machine it. i was able to thread the crank farther down (you can see the difference between the previous assembled engine pics and the crank above). i played around a bit and i can turn the threaded part down, and i am able to drill it, so i will be basicly machining it to a modified version of a typical sg shaft. im going to leave the crank a little larger, instead of 5mm id bearings ill keep it a little bigger and go with 6x10mm bearings. i wanted to use the crankshaft as is, however machining the crank allows me to use off the shelf clutchbells, and opens up the gearing options a bit.

speaking of gearing ive also figured out my spur gear and interference issues. im going to run an electric pinion gear as a spur gear, much like llkoolskillet did on his 75mph nitro savage. however, im going to run a slipper clutch, ill build a hub to combined the small gear with the slipper clutch. itll be somewhere around a 25 tooth spur gear, ill run between a 14 and 18 tooth clutchbell.

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Post by bigbigbrig » Thu Dec 26, 2013 2:50 pm

What is your idea for a roll bar. I think you will need some extra protection for the spark plug sticking out of the top of the motor.
I've been thinking about doing the same project.
For your clutch bell and spur. have you thought about using a savage flux spur gear. with the lower spur you can put a smaller clutch bell on and get a pretty consistant ratio.
For the engine mount. Would it be possible to use the stock engine plate and just make an engine mount or is the engine too wide for that to work out.
Would this mount work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-86140-Heat- ... 51b63319b7
Or on the other could you use this mount and just make an engine plate.

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Squid
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Post by Squid » Thu Dec 26, 2013 3:07 pm

Don't for a second think that HPI isn't keeping an eye on this thread already. They have been incorporating mods done by SC members for years.

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SV250
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Post by SV250 » Thu Dec 26, 2013 4:20 pm

Yep, theyre steering servo, bigbores, etc.

Cant wait til he gets it done. Well send the therad with a note "this is how you do it"
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v376/sv250/383%20Jeep/SV-SIG04-02.png[/img]
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v376/sv250/?special_track=nav_tab_album

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Sharkey_t
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Post by Sharkey_t » Fri Dec 27, 2013 1:30 am

i have thought about a flux spur gear, its no good. i need to get a spur/clutchbell ratio between 1.5 to 1.8:1, to do that with a flux 44 tooth spur i need to get something around a 25 tooth clutchbell. i was originally planning a revo spur, however even that requires something around a 22 clutchbell. stock engine plate just wont work, the engine is far too long (hangs off the end of the plate) and even those engine mounts wont work, not tall enough and the hole spacing is wrong.

i can make off the shelf parts work, however having a cnc milling machine and a lathe at my disposal, its far easier and quicker to machine new parts that are bdesigned for what im doing that to make something work.

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Post by Ascender » Tue Jan 07, 2014 1:18 am

Try Hot Racing, they make Revo spurs down to ridiculously small. I have a 34T HR Revo spur for my 4x4 Slash when I tune iit up for speed runs.
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Post by Sharkey_t » Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:40 am

the smallest spur gear made for a revo is 34 tooth. both hot racing and integy make them. im going to be running a 25 tooth for a spur.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Tue Jan 07, 2014 5:53 pm

Tekno pinions will fit onto the stock spur shaft without any modification. You can go from 30t to 10t, another option is the X0-1 34t pinion or 29t pinion
[img]http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h358/LLkoolskillet2/skillet1.jpg[/img]

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Tue Jan 07, 2014 5:55 pm

[img]http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h358/LLkoolskillet2/skillet1.jpg[/img]

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Post by Sharkey_t » Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:08 pm

ill post some pics once i get the engine mocked into place of why im going to run the gearing im planning. i can explain it again, but its just easier with pics. any 5mm pinion will fit right onto the transmission input shaft, however it eliminates the slipper clutch, something id like to keep.

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Post by Squid » Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:12 pm

Good choice keeping the slipper if you are going to be bashing the truck.

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Post by Sharkey_t » Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:53 pm

well i dont build shelf queens lol

i mocked the motor in today to get some pics so you guys can wrap your head around why im using such a small gear for the spur.

Image
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so you can see how big the engine is in the truck. shown is a 25 tooth gear on the transmission, and a 13 tooth clutchbell (smaller than im going to run, but its all i have right now) if you look at the centerline of the crank when its almost decectly bellow the center of the transmission input shaft i only have roughly 1/4" till the engine mount tab hits the chassis. i dont have a lot of room left to right, limiting the gearing options. now the next big issue is because the width of the engine, when the engine sits as low in the chassis as i can make it, the clutchbell, even the tiny 13 tooth, is hitting the brake rotors and pads. to combat this i had to lift the engine up, making it so i have to run a lower combined tooth count (spur gear teeth + clutchbell teeth). were on a typical nitro savage that number is 64 (47 spur and 17 clutchbell) i need something around 40 to make it work.

this is why i have planned the 25 tooth gear for the spur. the way i calculate the ratios out, it will allow me to run clutchbells between 14 and 18 tooth, giving me a pretty good gear ratio range. and if i find myself not able to gear correctly there are other pinion gears out there i can go use to alter the ratio further.

now some may have noticed that the crankshaft looks a heck of a lot shorter than in my last pics. last night i almost competed machining it. i turned the crank down to fit 6mm bearings and shortened it so it was basicly a bigger version of an sg shaft. however my issue came when i was threading the hole to retain the clutchbell. everything was going fine till i got startled/distracted by an r/c tank shooting bb's around the shop, and i broke the tap off in the crank. 3 hours of working with a punch and i cant get it out. even bought an expensive drillbit to drill the tap out, it wouldnt even touch it. so the end result is i have a crank for mock up purposes, and i get to machine another one when it gets here, and hopefully not break another tap.

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Post by Mudfrog » Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:16 am

Sweet build. Can't wait to see it run!
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Post by bifftit » Fri Jan 10, 2014 6:10 am

i would assume thatat regular sparkplugs dont fit into that motor. what kind and how much are they?
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Post by Sharkey_t » Sat Jan 11, 2014 1:38 pm

The spark plug is actually made by ngk. Iirc it's called an me8, for micro engine

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Post by Tor_evo_20th » Thu Jan 16, 2014 3:56 am

[quote="johny723";p="876477"]that is a great idea, just wait until he has finished the truck ! Can even imagine HPI attempting a sabotage on Sharkeys project :D[/quote]

May be Heat problem. that they could not solve from this engine.
Not to be rude it was just an opinion that I got before start doing Savage Octane
Last few months I discuss with some of the guy that did Savage Octane in Thailand. The following reason come up.
-How to start the engine(Similar to Airplane engine)
-Engine have to have fan to blow the heat away while running(unlike the plane where they have Propeller to reduce heat while flying or even idle. for boat Octane engine they have water cooling through the heat sink on top I think) For car there are none and with body cover it it would get pretty hot.)
Unlike below is Engine from 5B or 5T they have a fan inside and outside to help cool the engine down while running.
Image

From Pic below imo HPI trying to solve heat problem but the fan like this might not be good idea when the truck jump around always. High or low jump.
Image
Image

Nitro would need no fan as the nitro fuel already keep the engine cool to get high performance
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Post by GhostbikerNL » Thu Jan 16, 2014 6:24 am

real cool build!! curious to see the end product!
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Sharkey_t
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Post by Sharkey_t » Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:55 pm

dont worry, ill be building a heat sink for the engine. the engine i have claims 300*f is normal, and you should only get concerned if it gets to 340*f. seems too hot, but thats what the manufacturer says.

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