Savage Flux XL CD conversion kit ordered

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topgoose
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Savage Flux XL CD conversion kit ordered

Post by topgoose » Mon Sep 15, 2014 5:13 pm

I'm sick of breaking diff parts (even when shimmed correctly)! I brought a Robinson racing slipper clutch but the spur gear stripped on the first pack due to a bad bearing in the gearbox causing the mesh to shift!

Enough is enough!

I've gone ahead and ordered a Alza Racing center diff conversion kit. I have a Vorza Flux which I'm parting out so I'll take the center diff from that (48t spur).

I'm going to be running 6s so I'm going to start off with a 10t pinion which should be close to the stock gearing. I'll be running the stock GT2 wheels.

Oil:

Front 50k
Rear 50k
Center 500k

Any tips or advice will be more than welcome. I bash my truck hard and love jumping so I hope the CD will help as much as people say it will.

My truck is pretty much bullet proof now apart from the diffs. I'm at the point where I get nervous taking it out nowadays. The CD conversion isn't cheap so some reassurance I'm doing the correct thing please :-)

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donyms
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Post by donyms » Mon Sep 15, 2014 9:40 pm

I believe you're doing the right thing but remember bearings will go out on the CD also. The new stock bearings that came with my Vorza CD went out in only a couple of packs. I then ordered some Boca yellow seal hybrid bearings and have had any more problems since and that has been about 9 months ago. All my other bearings in the truck are Boca yellow seal also and they are about a year old and still in great shape. Just my experience. Boca also has a green seal bearing that is great but all steel. I run those in my Ruckus and haven't had a bearing go out since (3-4 months so far) and they are much less expensive. As long as you're not racing I think the green seals are great. That being said, the CD will do wonders for protecting your drivetrain. Good luck man, keep us posted.

50k-500k-50k is what I run in mine too.
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Kharn_El_Traidor
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Post by Kharn_El_Traidor » Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:54 am

@donyms
how do you take care of your bearings?, I also have Boca yellow and green seal and they dont last as much as yours

@topgoose
you can also change the spider gears with the GPM ones
http://www.gpmparts.com/shop/hpi-savage ... 08066.html
I think these are the correct ones, but Im not sure right now

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donyms
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Post by donyms » Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:04 am

[quote="Kharn_El_Traidor";p="883126"]@donyms
how do you take care of your bearings?, I also have Boca yellow and green seal and they dont last as much as yours

@topgoose
you can also change the spider gears with the GPM ones
http://www.gpmparts.com/shop/hpi-savage ... 08066.html
I think these are the correct ones, but Im not sure right now[/quote]

I just blow off my truck with my air compressor after every bashing session. Other than that I just run them until they fail then replace. I bought a few spares when I purchased them but I have not had one fail yet. I will not try to tell you that you will never get a bad one but it is not the norm. I have a friend that races and he works at an industrial bearing house (Motion Industries) and he uses Boca in all of his RCs. He told me that he has had a couple of Boca bearings that were not smooth and a couple go out after much use but that they are by far the best in his opinion. Like me he has had no luck with Acer or Avid and I won't even consider the stock ones ever again.
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Post by topgoose » Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:06 am

Thanks guys! I will defo consider upgrading the bearings!

I was mainly breaking the 9t pinions or the pins inside the diff, the internals not so much.

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Post by ramos617 » Tue Sep 16, 2014 4:35 pm

I highly doubt this is a bearing problem
I run $1 avid/fasteddy bearing and have absolutely no drivetrain issues at all, if they start to go bad I replace them and I'll tell ya it's way faster and easier than cleaning them out
It sounds more like a shimming or throttle control problem
That said there is way less to go wrong with the CD than the stock tranny
Savage Flux XL: MMM/1800kv
2013 Savage X: F4.6
Hobao H4e: HW90a/10.5T

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Post by topgoose » Tue Sep 16, 2014 4:54 pm

[quote="ramos617";p="883134"]I highly doubt this is a bearing problem
I run $1 avid/fasteddy bearing and have absolutely no drivetrain issues at all, if they start to go bad I replace them and I'll tell ya it's way faster and easier than cleaning them out
It sounds more like a shimming or throttle control problem
That said there is way less to go wrong with the CD than the stock tranny[/quote]

Throttle control problem I doubt, I'm not someone who lands with the throttle on or brake on. I don't run a wheelie bar so know the art of throttle control. Shimming maybe but I do shim both the pinion and ring. I only run 6s which doesn't help I guess..

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:47 pm

Youll be just fine, I only run 6s and have recently started to run 8s thru my flux XL. I run 100k/500k mixed with difflock lube/100k on 10/52

Ive landed 40' jumps on throttle with no issue. I also just cartwheeled the truck at 77mph lol. Again youll be just fine
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Post by Kharn_El_Traidor » Wed Sep 17, 2014 4:20 am

@donyms
thanks for the tips, although Ive no access to any aire compressor :(

@topgoose
sorry, I though you were breaking the internals, they are the one I was always breaking, on the other hand Ive never broke the 29t or 9t gears

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Post by topgoose » Wed Sep 17, 2014 5:50 am

Thanks guys!

I'm currently using the Alza Racing extended motor mount. Will this need to go when I install the CD? My ESC is currently mounted on the motor plate in a Vorza cage stuck down with double sided foam tape. I like this setup.

I'm worried about how the TVP's (4mm Alza Racing XL) will hold up if I remove the motor plate. I guess some bracing will be required and remounting of the ESC if removed?

How have you guys with a CD approached this?

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:41 pm

I use TCS plates and the TCS esc mount behind the motor. Thats all the extra bracing ive used in the rear
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Post by Kharn_El_Traidor » Fri Sep 19, 2014 3:45 am

@topgoose

I also have the Alza xl 4mm chasis and the alza extended motor plate with the alza cd, all fits perfectly, althoguh it is tricky to install the cd with the extended motor plate, but when you got it you will realice that the cd is designed to fit with the extended motor plate

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Post by topgoose » Sun Sep 21, 2014 3:53 am

Thanks for the feedback guys!

All my parts have arrived now, the CD kit took less than a week to arrive, I'm in the UK  :lol:

The CD kit is very well engineered and well thought out like all the other Alza Racing parts I own.

I just need to assemble it all now.

I've cleaned out all diffs and put 100k in the front and rear and 500k in the center diff. I was running 50-60k in the front and rear before which was good but 100k should be spot on for my taste.

Can't wait :twisted:

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Sun Sep 21, 2014 3:04 pm

Cant wait to see the video  :wink:
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Post by topgoose » Sun Sep 21, 2014 5:45 pm

All done

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donyms
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Post by donyms » Mon Sep 22, 2014 8:26 am

Great to hear you're liking the improvements. Can't wait to see the video. Keep up the good work.
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Post by topgoose » Mon Sep 22, 2014 2:02 pm

Cheers!

I just gave it a once over out before taking it out and noticed the pinion was loose

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Post by motoxskp » Mon Sep 22, 2014 2:24 pm

Donyms........where do i purchase the alza cd kit ? Is it the alza racing website? bc thats the only place i can find.....also, how much is it in U.S. dollars? Thanks in advance

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Mon Sep 22, 2014 3:52 pm

Killer dude, the Alza CD setup is the mack daddy in the flux and worth every penny of the $114 I spent on it.
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Post by Kharn_El_Traidor » Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:17 am

I always use superglue (cianocrilate) in the motor pinion, if you want to take it off, you need something very hot touching the shaft, like a good welder or a vitroceramic cooktop to melt the superglue, but it never get loose is the good part :)

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