HPI Flux slipper clutch advice

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HPI Flux slipper clutch advice

Post by Team-TCS » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:54 pm

Ok, so am I the only one that can't get the slipper properly adjusted?  If I set it up to slip at all, it just winds up slipping too much and the pads get wasted.  If I lock it down all the way, stuff gets blown up!  Anyone have any luck setting the slipper up and having it actually work?
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Post by xtremesavage » Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:36 pm

What exactly are you blowing up?

Mine doesnt really slip either, Its locked pretty tight. But I think it would slip if it needed to.

I think every flux owner has this problem, its either to loose or to tight.

I've done some thinking on a way to fix this, but only ideas in my head, Mrsnuggles was working on something, but I'm not sure if it panned out.
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Post by hypnotiq » Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:41 pm

i tighten all the way and go back 1/8 turn. No issues at all.

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Post by xtremesavage » Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:50 pm

[quote="hypnotiq";p="733364"]i tighten all the way and go back 1/8 turn. No issues at all.[/quote]

Yours is locked, I doubt it is slipping when it should. Hold your spur and roll your truck, see if it actually slips. I bet its locked.
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Post by Freezebyte » Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:50 pm

Tighten it till it won't go anymore then go out about 1/4 a turn. Mine has worked well with that setting

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Post by KrashKrieg » Wed Dec 09, 2009 1:19 am

mines about a 1/4 turn off full tight also....
have only had to scuff up the pad a little... 3 months old...but have replacement pads on hand...
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Post by xtremesavage » Wed Dec 09, 2009 1:36 pm

You guys dont understand that your slipper clutch isnt working, it isnt slipping, you have it locked. Which is what Team tcs is trying to avoid,  You tighten it down all the way then back it off 1/4-1/8 turn and it wont slip, if you loosen it any more than that and it constantly slip's until the pad wears away.

The thing is, this has been a problem on the savage for awhile, even the nitro guys have problems.
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Post by Team-TCS » Wed Dec 09, 2009 4:27 pm

I guess it's just the way it is and we have to put up with it.  The smaller r/c's are so much easier to adjust.  You can actually set it up to slip on purpose almost all the time when doing dead stop full throttle starts.  You can't do that with the flux.  But the flux is another animal all together.
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Post by ozzynichols » Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:38 pm

I have 2 pairs of the Kershaw Designs HD slipper systems for my Flux and ERBE. I installed them and they mounted fine, but I'll have to wait until spring to test them.
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Post by Team-TCS » Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:50 am

[quote="ozzynichols";p="733496"]I have 2 pairs of the Kershaw Designs HD slipper systems for my Flux and ERBE. I installed them and they mounted fine, but I'll have to wait until spring to test them.[/quote]

Keep us updated, I'd love to see how they work out.
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Post by whipnet » Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:25 am

Yep, this is a problem for brushless.  When I was nitro I ran mine tightened all the way down.  I did this after the brushless was installed and I grenaded a CEN diff pinion.  Anything backed off slipped and heats up pretty quick.

I'll be watching this thread for ideas.

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Post by Freezebyte » Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:17 pm

Again, i've had no such problems but then again, I only run 4S

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Post by Mr.Snuggles » Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 am

[quote="xtremesavage";p="733362"]What exactly are you blowing up?

Mine doesnt really slip either, Its locked pretty tight. But I think it would slip if it needed to.

I think every flux owner has this problem, its either to loose or to tight.

I've done some thinking on a way to fix this, but only ideas in my head, Mrsnuggles was working on something, but I'm not sure if it panned out.[/quote]

it did work out. the new spring system has higher pressure without full lock of the nut. i just never got to measure the difference in torque until slip for each system.

only part changed was out with the spring and in with the spring cup shims.
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Post by Team-TCS » Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:50 am

MrSnuggles, what parts did you use for your mod?
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Post by Mr.Snuggles » Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:58 am

those are called belleville springs. throw it in google and you can find some reading material on it.

the cool thing about this setup is that you can make the tension on the slipper to what ever desired by adding more shims if you need more tension or how you set the springs up.

there are many ways to set up those springs just like lego.

check this site.
http://www.bellevillesprings.com/index.html
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Post by TLTRyan » Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:58 pm

Snuggles do you have any pics of your setup?   What spring did you use?

Most of the sizes that look useful to us only have a .3 to .4 millimeter of adjustment for adjusting the spring tension.  I would think it would be hard to keep the same tension run after run?  Then again I'm probably looking at the wrong part?

I was looking at these springs.  http://www.bellevillesprings.com/disc-s ... -2093.html
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Post by V0RT3X » Sun Dec 13, 2009 2:10 pm

Here are some part #'s:

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/search/?q=belleville

The TRX one should fit?

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Post by ozzynichols » Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:00 pm

The KD ones I have use the belleville springs, as well as a thrust bearing between the nut and springs. They are $9 a set.
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Post by fb5b » Wed Dec 16, 2009 10:46 pm

Grab your small 7mm Tamiya wheel nut tool thing, lock clutch down using that, you will still be able to get another 1/4 to 1/2 turn in using a 7mm ring spanner so no, it's not actually fully locked down.

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Post by KrashKrieg » Wed Dec 23, 2009 9:17 am

Kershaw Designs Belleville Slipper for Flux: 8.99
http://204.186.93.64/SlipperSpring.htm
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