Comprehensive Flux Guide

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cdziak
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Re: Comprehensive Flux Guide

Post by cdziak » Fri Dec 23, 2011 7:34 pm

Bro, I had the same problem, but it took a run on 6S to pop my pinion the first time. You gonna have to do a lot more work to a T-Maxx to get that brushless and durable.  :wink:
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cdziak
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Post by cdziak » Mon Jan 02, 2012 10:14 am

Added Heir's complete video tutorial links. Flux-o-mania!
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Post by Luizito » Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:18 pm

Hey But if i Tighten the Slipper Clutch My Drivetrain will be damaged isnt???

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Post by cdziak » Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:19 pm

you need to be a little more aware of not landing with the throttle pegged.  I would venture to say that 99% of us Flux owners run a slipper as tight as possible, or even the Alza locker without any issues.
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Post by lightningdt » Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:21 pm

Agreed-ed! I didn't head the warning and my slipper lasted less than one set of packs! It's new and locked all the way down now. Months later no issues!

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:33 pm

I dont have a slipper anymore :cry:

When I did it was locked all the way down, same with my nitros
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Post by KTMDirtFace » Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:38 pm

[quote="LLkoolskillet";p="835806"]I dont have a slipper anymore :cry:

When I did it was locked all the way down, same with my nitros[/quote]

My slipper has been fully cranked down and locktite since day one. ( after it came loose and the nut fell off the first time I drove the thing )

I think my 6s standing flip is what blew my diff up. so much power noob timing on letting off the throttle is my guess of what I did.  4s I'm pretty good at not landing pinned.

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Post by lightningdt » Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:58 pm

After I used the Castle link to do some de-tuning I feel like I can beat them without any worry of killing them anymore.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:43 am

I dont have a slipper anymore cause I have a center diff  :twisted: in my flux
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Post by vandodger » Fri Apr 19, 2013 2:01 pm

[quote="LLkoolskillet";p="835831"]I dont have a slipper anymore cause I have a center diff

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Post by cdziak » Fri Apr 19, 2013 2:03 pm

What did you belt with?  I've used gorilla tape before but it just added a wobble for me.  I run Baja 5B rears all around, no issues with ballooning on 6S.
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Post by LLkoolskillet » Fri Apr 19, 2013 4:15 pm

I double belted some 40series proline bowties with gorilla tape, they dont wobble. How did you belt yours?
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Post by vandodger » Sat Apr 20, 2013 12:01 am

[quote="cdziak";p="865284"]What did you belt with?

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Post by cdziak » Sun Apr 21, 2013 9:57 am

I used the tape on some onroad tires for my XS.  Did 2 passes with it and they seem a little out of balance.  Maybe from the overlapping, I'm not sure.
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Post by SavageBerzerker » Sun Dec 08, 2013 11:16 pm

[quote="Felix";p="802584"]Tie rod eliminators are a must as well... This guide should help alot of ppl[/quote]

What are these you speak of Tie rod Eliminators can you explain and what is the best for the steering.
[i][b][size=117][color=darkblue]Only The Strong Will Survive, The Weak Shall Perish!!![/color][/size][/b][/i]

[i][b][size=117][color=blue]Savage Flux HP Upgrade/Beginners Guide - Work In Process!!![/color][/size][/b][/i]

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Post by cdziak » Mon Dec 09, 2013 2:49 pm

Rear bearing carriers from Integy, also HPI made of aluminum and they eliminate the rear tie rod that is commonly broke off.
Rear Bearing Carriers

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Post by SavageBerzerker » Mon Dec 09, 2013 4:10 pm

what about the front?

and what part number for upper arm?
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[i][b][size=117][color=blue]Savage Flux HP Upgrade/Beginners Guide - Work In Process!!![/color][/size][/b][/i]

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Post by johny723 » Mon Dec 09, 2013 5:28 pm

front hubs hardly ever break. If there is something to break, it is 99% the servo saver assembly
the arms are adjustable x ss upper arms. I think they are HPI 85067

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Post by cdziak » Mon Dec 09, 2013 5:40 pm

The front Carrier / C Hub can be replaced with aluminum if you like.  There is the upper arm which can be stock non-adjustable, or the X SS adjustable ones.  The only other tie rod is for your steering links up front.  You want to keep that.

The reason there's a tie rod in the rear is because HPI using the same knuckle assembly front and rear.  They use that extra tie rod at the back to lock the rear carrier from pivoting like the front.
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Post by SavageBerzerker » Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:18 pm

[quote="cdziak";p="875906"]The front Carrier / C Hub can be replaced with aluminum if you like.
[i][b][size=117][color=darkblue]Only The Strong Will Survive, The Weak Shall Perish!!![/color][/size][/b][/i]

[i][b][size=117][color=blue]Savage Flux HP Upgrade/Beginners Guide - Work In Process!!![/color][/size][/b][/i]

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