Vorza/Savage BP diff How to

Questions about Hop Ups for the Savage.

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LLkoolskillet
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Vorza/Savage BP diff How to

Post by LLkoolskillet » Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:03 pm

This is an upgrade that is a must, it utilizes both beaings that are the SAME size. No longer will you have to use the small 10mm bearing that always blows up. Yes you will be using a plastic diff housing but it has been battle tested at 8s Lipo. So it will easily handle modded Nitro power or your basic RTR. This mod is way stronger than the stock setup, trust me I have both ERCM Picco and Flux on 6s :twisted:
Here we go

NOTE:
Anyone else considering this mod, please note that how many shims I used will be different from everyone else. No two bulkheads are exactly the same size...dimension wise where the diff sits. I have noticed this on many bulks. A used bulk has been broken in sorta speakin so the diff will fit in there with more shims. Where as a new bulk will require less shims. So shim accordingly!


*UPDATE*
Part Numbers


The Vorza diff housing - HBC8019  X 2
HB Steel bevel gears - HBC80101-1  X 2
HB Steel bevel shafts- HBSC8022  X 2
Hpi aluminum gasket - HPI 86599
8mm shimm- HPIZ877
8mm Bearings- HPIB085

Parts list

HB Vorza Diff Housing
HB Steel bevel gear set
HPI BP Flux diff set...... will also work with standard savage X axles and diff cups
2x 8m HPI wheel bearings
HPI Aluminum diff gasket
Your diff oil of choice
Your diff grease of choice
Blue thread lock

Image

Step 1

Install the diff cup into the diff housing
I use 2 shims for this, but some may use more or less, its personal preferance here on the shims
I also use the stock HPI wheel bearing as well, new of course
and the savage XL or Flux diff cup.
The picture will show you what you need

Image
Image

Step 2

Time to install the Big gear for the steel bevel gear set
This is done the same way for every diff,
Last edited by LLkoolskillet on Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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dragonbat13
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Post by dragonbat13 » Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:40 pm

Awesom Tech.

I take it the vorza cups are metal and just look like plastic?

Also, Is there any kind of kit that has a good selection of shims.  I am haveing a hard time with shimming everything from BP three speeds to Diffs.  fortunatly My XL came factory with the diff cup shims and there wasnt much play in the gears.  

My plan is to swap out my bad bearings during my next tear down, then go to this when funds allow and after I get some good bash times in on my FLM build so I can inspect everything.
Mark

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:43 pm

The vorza housing are in fact plastic but the part where he bearing sits on it steel pressed into the cup.

As for shim kits, I honestly only know about the OFNA clutch shim kit. Im sure there out there. Haha I used the bigger shims meant for the 10mm bearing LOL. They still work for me :D
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Post by Poorboymz3 » Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:08 pm

Awesome write up, very thorough! The need to sticky this or put in the/a how-to section!

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Post by rumpity_z28 » Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:15 pm

great job skillet im going to try that out on one of my trucks

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:18 pm

Your welcome  :wink:
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Post by dragonbat13 » Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:33 pm

Hey LL,  If I am not mistaken, if I did this mod on my 2011 XL,  I would have the same bearing from wheel rim to wheel rim front and back correct?  That would be great if one bearing could be used through out the driveline from the diff on out.
Mark

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:45 am

You are correct Dragon :D

Even the 2 bearings for the pinion are the same
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Post by waterbar » Sat Feb 25, 2012 3:28 am

This is excellent, when my diffs decide to die I will upgrade with this option for sure, thanks LLkoolskillet for the write up and excellent pics.

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Post by ffr3247r » Sun Feb 26, 2012 7:12 pm

I just did this last night and ran two sets of packs today and the first time ever I haven't broken something in a diff. I only did the rear since the bearing was blown up. Held up today to 6s with no problems. When the front 10mm blows up I will do it. I ordered all the parts to do both. The only thing I did different was I used the vorza pins and cross shaft for the spider gears so no grinding for me.

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Post by ffr3247r » Sun Feb 26, 2012 7:14 pm

I just did this last night and ran two sets of packs today and the first time ever I haven't broken something in a diff. I only did the rear since the bearing was blown up. Held up today to 6s with no problems. When the front 10mm blows up I will do it. I ordered all the parts to do both. The only thing I did different was I used the vorza pins and cross shaft for the spider gears so no grinding for me.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Sun Feb 26, 2012 7:35 pm

Killer dude that's what I'm talkin about!

Those longer pins you speak of, well I found some Layin around and an older buggy diff housing. The pins fill the slot up perfectly. Well I put this new set up on the front of my blackout. So with a half gallon thru the front diff now with this set up the cups are still solid as a rock.

My flux with both diffs now fully modded have taken some abuse as well. I broke a tooth off the front pinion and the diff bearings are still fresh and new!

This really is the ultimate diff upgrade :twisted:
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Post by GSGA » Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:32 pm

Nice. Gonna have to check my stuff I may have some of those cups  :wink:
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Post by messiah1 » Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:03 am

I read somewhere that you shouldn't use threadlock for plastic because it eats the plastic?  That doesn't sound right to me but wanted to ask.  Anyway, I've ordered all the parts to do this.  I have 4 XL diffs but I do notice the larger bearing seems to seize up faster so I'm going to give this a try.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Mon Feb 27, 2012 12:31 pm

Never heard of thread lock eatin plastic and I sure have dropped a bunch all over my truck. Never seen any pitting or anything.

Adding it to screws that go into plastic would be more of an insurance thing for me.

I to notice that the larger 10mm bearing wears much much faster. That's why this is a good solution to that.
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Post by nitronly » Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:45 pm

I read in a post somewhere on here that thread lock will eat away the plastic and that it would do more harm than good and to use ca glue instead. I don't remember who posted it and don't know if there is any truth to it.

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Post by SXL-APT » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:22 pm

Yeah, R/T on plastic is a no go, doesn't hold and messes up the plastics, glue is the way to go.

Its a common problem with brake screws backing out of the gear box because L/T was used not glue.

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Post by LLkoolskillet » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:00 pm

Well CA glue it is for plastic and loktite for metal.

Strange tho I've never had this issue, but I will take the advice a pass it on.
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Post by Poorboymz3 » Fri Mar 09, 2012 4:15 pm

Do you have a part number for the shims in step 11?
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Post by teknik812 » Fri Mar 09, 2012 4:41 pm

Excellent write-up LL. The pictures are greatly appreciated.

So this mod is used only to eliminate the 10mm bearings?

I've never used any other diff cups than aluminum. What purpose does the little grub screw serve?

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