RTR Savage .25

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krome
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Roto start Battery

Post by krome » Fri Oct 03, 2003 1:56 am

My Savage 25 is on it's way from Tower, I used the $25 off as well :D
Im not sure which type of 7.2v battery and charger i need for the Rotostart
can anyone help?
Links to online stores would be useful preferably uk based.
Thanks..

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electro303
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Post by electro303 » Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:18 am

im just using a 1700mah. nothing specail just a cheap brand

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diaedy
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Post by diaedy » Fri Oct 03, 2003 5:38 am

I only used one of my older 1500.Had it left over from yesteryears. It turns over soooooo fast that be all ya need

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krome
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Post by krome » Fri Oct 03, 2003 8:27 am

what sort of connector is needed?

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Post by Savage-Abuser » Fri Oct 03, 2003 8:36 am

white tamiya/JST connector

I used a matched 3300 lol, i raced touring cars and had al lthe top stuff, but sold most to get teh savage (great decision) so i use oneleft over, over kill but last abiut a month lol


Id go for a nicad tho, they dont loose power just sitting on teh side like nimhs

I was told by my LHS to use a 200 minimum, but take that wit ha pinch of salt

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SavagePicco
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Post by SavagePicco » Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:13 pm

Hey just noticed people arguing about the different tank in this thread.
I noticed that the new tank looks the same size top to bottom.
ie: the top of the tank is the same size as the bottom of the tank.
Could the lean out at half tank be cause of the weight drop when the fuel hits the half way mark.
Like in the original tank you had about 2/3 of the fuel in the top half and only 1/3 fuel capacity in the bottom?
Or is the lean out sudden at half tank and not a gradual decrease in pressure?
I am probably wrong
Had to ask tho.
Savage .21. Picco .26 P3 Monster! 3x Shoe Mugen flywheel. Alloy clutch shoes. Hyper 7 PCR Pro Tuned Pipe and Air Filter. Adj. upper arms. 4 Spider diffs. Golden Horizons Alloy rear diff cup. GPM Alloy rear Diff Housing. HS-5955TG. HS-645MG

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MuddyRover
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Post by MuddyRover » Fri Oct 03, 2003 8:54 pm

the fuel tanks are different in where the fuel line pick up is.

SS - front
RTR - Rear

It leans out when the fuel flows to the back of the tank when you gun it.
So the pickup in the rear is a whole lot better.

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Post by SavagePicco » Fri Oct 03, 2003 10:25 pm

ahhh
thanks for clearing that up for me.
I wasnt thinking in terms of motion from acceleration
:)
Savage .21. Picco .26 P3 Monster! 3x Shoe Mugen flywheel. Alloy clutch shoes. Hyper 7 PCR Pro Tuned Pipe and Air Filter. Adj. upper arms. 4 Spider diffs. Golden Horizons Alloy rear diff cup. GPM Alloy rear Diff Housing. HS-5955TG. HS-645MG

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Post by CRSMP5 » Fri Oct 03, 2003 10:32 pm

the new tank is a piece of art.... goto the lhs and look IN one..... outside is nothing vs inside....

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Post by SavagePicco » Sat Oct 04, 2003 7:45 am

I wish my LHS would stock something as cool as the Savage.
I suppose a pic of the inside of one of the new tanks would be hard to obtain?
If there is a pic of the innards of one of these new tanks on the net could someone post the URL or the pic itself.
Cheers
Savage .21. Picco .26 P3 Monster! 3x Shoe Mugen flywheel. Alloy clutch shoes. Hyper 7 PCR Pro Tuned Pipe and Air Filter. Adj. upper arms. 4 Spider diffs. Golden Horizons Alloy rear diff cup. GPM Alloy rear Diff Housing. HS-5955TG. HS-645MG

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Post by Shodin » Sat Oct 04, 2003 2:41 pm

Well, I was originally going to buy the SS, but think I'm going to buy the 25 instead.

Being a first time buyer of a nitro I'm not completely clear on what else is needed after I buy the truck. I've looked at some starter kits and they seem to have everything I need, but are price disparity is pretty large b'n the two.

What's the difference here?

eHobbies Nitro Starter Pack
http://www.rcmodels.com/rc-cen-g70433.html

Nitro Start-Up Set
http://www.hpiracing.com/optionparts/op-nitro.htm

Also, is one of these starter kits the only other thing I'll need or is there something else I have to buy?

TiA!

// Shodin

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Post by Puffnstuff » Sat Oct 04, 2003 3:22 pm

You might want extra glow plugs on hand and an infrared thermometer to help with tuning. Tower is selling the os a5's 3 for $16.97 and has a duratrax thermometer for around $25 which is pretty good.
Savage 25 w/mach 26, tsais pro pipe, xtm sliding clutch, JR XS3 Radio, Airtronics 94358z, jr z590, new era wheelie bar, MS filter, Ofna mp ss, hpi dual disk brakes, 4 spider mod in alloy diffs & gearboxes, velocity 6 wheels/zombie maxx tires, gpm hexe

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krome
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Post by krome » Sat Oct 04, 2003 3:22 pm

There's now 2 videos of the Savage 25 up on the HPI Europe site.
One doin wheelies:

http://www.hpieurope.com/video/wheelie.mov

And the new one where the savage is up on its 2 side wheels:

http://www.hpieurope.com/video/savage25_2wheel.mov

Heh heh heh check out the balloon tyres :D

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Post by Savage-Abuser » Sat Oct 04, 2003 5:27 pm

that 2 wheeling one looks liek it would require immesnse skill

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Post by almarktool » Sat Oct 04, 2003 7:32 pm

any rtr 25 owners out there yet that might be able to help

question is do u have to unmount the front shocks in order to put the reciver/battery cover on ?
if not any secrets on putting it on with out breaking anything?

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kevinlongisland
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Post by kevinlongisland » Sat Oct 04, 2003 8:17 pm

well, i'm not a 25rtr owner, but the "old" savage 21 cover is also tricky to take off and put on. i take the roll bar off of mine, it makes it allot easier and it's only 7 screws, the three on each side of the roll bar and the one on the exhaust so you can get the screw behind it. When you lift the cover up, it will hit the linkage going to the back, i just push the linkage over and lift the cover past it.

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Post by CRSMP5 » Sat Oct 04, 2003 8:19 pm

cover = PIA put a 5 cell hump pack in it with charger wire and after it sits ont eh truck with not touchign it for like 30-60 days, it seems to "mold" into position for easy removal and installation..

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savvy1
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Post by savvy1 » Sat Oct 04, 2003 9:40 pm

I just received my Savage 25 Rtr from Tower today and was wondering if I need to locktite the backplate on this engine or should it be ok since the Roto Start plate was installed on it? If so what's the easiest way to get at the screws, do I have to take the engine out of the chassis to do this or can it be done mounted in place? The truck looks awesome and very boss, can't wait to fire her up. :lol:
Last edited by savvy1 on Sat Oct 04, 2003 9:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by DieselNut » Sat Oct 04, 2003 9:52 pm

savvy1, POST pics :)
Iron MaIdeN "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner"

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kevinlongisland
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Post by kevinlongisland » Sun Oct 05, 2003 7:56 am

i have a savage21, and my backplate was loose after a galllon or so. after i locktighted it i never had another problem. the easiest way to get to the back of the motor is to remove the entire rear suspension assembly. i know it sounds like allot, but i can do it in 10-15 minutes, its pretty easy.

take off all the tires. remove the screws on one side that hold the motor plate. then look and remove any screws that seem like they hold that entire rear assembly (diff, shock tower, etc) on. you will have to take the bottom screws off the front side rear shock so you can get to one of the screws that goes through the tvp plate. make sure the fuel line is disconnected if it will give you a problem when you pull the assembly off. When you think you have all the screws, pull the tvp plates apart and the entire rear assembly will seperate from the truck. then you will have complete access to the back of the motor.

hope this helps.

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