Ok, whether you are installing a new engine, changing the gear ratio (clutch bell and spur gear), updating your linkage to an OFNA style, or upgrading your radio system and/or servos, chances are that your linkage will need to be corrected for the new changes in order to get full W.O.T. (wide open throttle), and for your brakes to work correctly. A lot of times people will buy upgrades, slap them on and go out bashing without even considering the linkages, and often times they won't get the full benefit of their engine capabilites because their throttle won't open all they way. It just takes a few minutes to get your linkages set up perfectly and be able to enjoy the advantages of having W.O.T. when you want it.
I will start with all of the linkage off my truck, and take some pics as I go so you can see what's going on. For all of my trucks, I use the stock throttle servo arm, Traxxas T-Maxx linkage kit, and a few misc. OFNA pieces out of my linkage "parts bag". Some of the steps in this guide can not be used if you still have the stock linkage set up, but you may be able to use some of the tips here anyway.
First, take the arm off the servo. Turn the radio and the reciever to the "on" position. Adjust the throttle trim on the transmitter to the center position. This is called "centering the servo".
Now place the arm on the servo as close as possible to a 90 degree angle to the TVP (or perpendicular to the TVP). If you can't get the arm in a 90 degree angle to the TVP, you can adjust you throttle trim on your transmitter slightly to achieve this. Your linkage stops should be loosened up of completely off before this step to make life easier.
Now assemble your linkage. Push gently on the short linkage attached to the carb and check the position of the "L" shaped bellcrank. It should be at a 90 degree angle like in the pic below. If not, adjust the fitting that snaps on the carb ball so that you do have a 90 degree angle on the bellcrank.
Holding the linkage with your left hand and gently pull so that the carb is "closed" or at the idle position, you can tighten the stop that pushes the carb open. This way you will get "instant response" from the throttle.
Now you can put the "return" spring and another stop on the left side of the arm. I like to use some small washers on both sides of the spring. By the way, the spring I used here is from a click-type ball point pen. This will make sure your throttle closes when you bring the throttle back to the idle position.
Now pull the trigger on your transmitter and check the throw. The picture below is what your linkage should look like at W.O.T. Make sure your carb is opening all the way.
You will need to increase or decrease the end point so that you get full wide open throttle without binding the linkage (which could damage your servo).
At this point, the accellerator should be all set. Don't forget to put the servo arm screw back in. On to the brakes...
With the radio equipment still on, tighten the stop on the brake linkage so that there is a small amount of play at the idle position for the brakes. Push the trigger on the transmitter and see if you have the proper amount of throw to engage the brakes. You don't want it to lock up too hard as to flip your truck over because it is too hard on your drive train. You just want to be able to stop your truck in a reasonable amount of time. You will need to drive your truck around and adjust the end point as you test your brakes for the feel you are looking for. Remember, you don't want the linkage to bind, and you don't want it to lock up as to flip your truck when you stop. It's likely that you will need to "turn it down" so to speak.
Tech tips for the Savage can be found here.
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