SAVAGE Break In, Tuning, Build and General Tips

Tech tips for the Savage can be found here.

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Ryanrodfl6363lu
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I need help tunning my savage 25.

Post by Ryanrodfl6363lu » Fri Oct 22, 2004 4:20 pm

Every time i run my savage 25 it seems to heat up. i am using blue thunde 20%. my lhs says that it should tune it to run at 235-240, and then when i start bashing and running hard, 270 at most. I recently boaght a temp gun, and can run easily at 240-250, but then when i start running hard, i see low 300s. is this too hot? if so whant should i do. i have everything set rich. also when it is running hotter than it is supposed to when goint flom wide open to idle, it sound like the throttle is stiking. (overlean?)PLEASE help! thankyou

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piccobeast26
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Post by piccobeast26 » Fri Nov 19, 2004 5:17 pm

something can be slipping (clutch, spurgear) so check your clutch's heat and in the instructoins for the truck it shows you how to check how tight the spurgear is.

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UNITED_RC
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Post by UNITED_RC » Sun Dec 12, 2004 11:45 pm

I am a new savage owner, and i just completed the assembly yesterday, and I could not get it started (SS Kit version). I found this article, and it was DEAD ON!!!

I am almost done breaking the engine in, CANT WAIT!

Thank you for such a GREAT "noobie" article!

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Post by JeepAlaska » Mon Dec 27, 2004 12:29 am

Great article on starting a new Savage. What temperature should it be outside for break in? It is 2 degrees outside and I'm going out of my mind not running it. I started it in my garage just to here it then turned it off. I don't want to burn it down right off the bat with the cold temp outside. but would 30 degrees be ok?

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Dnns
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Post by Dnns » Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:11 pm

Is the break-in procedure .25 only? I just bought a SS 4,9cc and was just wondering if i could use your break-in FAQ.

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HIRISK
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Post by HIRISK » Fri Jan 14, 2005 7:54 am

Dnns,

The break in procedure can be used for pretty much any nitro engine. Everyone has there own method of breaking in an engine, this is just how I do mine and it has always worked well with all my nitro motors.

Cheers,
Shaun.

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TANIS
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Post by TANIS » Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:34 am

Hi all, I noticed on your page one post, you mention wrapping the excess Antenna wire up in the radio box. This is a BAD thing to do as it can severely reduce reception and can cause your radio to loose range. It will also be very susceptible to interference. You wouldn
LRP Z.28R, 4 Spider Diff Mod, Motor Saver Air Filter, HPI Polished Pipe, HB M/T Center CVDs, Reverse Module, HPI Dual SS Disk Brakes (Mad!!!), Hitec 645MG, Alloy Hubs, Full Alloy Skid Set

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naflastrengur
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Post by naflastrengur » Mon Feb 21, 2005 11:47 am

Hi man,

Nice work. But I have some questions. Is it hard to build up the car? And what kind of servo do you recommend for savage 4.6?

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TANIS
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Post by TANIS » Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:44 am

The only servo you need to change is the Steering Servo - I would recommend the Hitec 645MG (
LRP Z.28R, 4 Spider Diff Mod, Motor Saver Air Filter, HPI Polished Pipe, HB M/T Center CVDs, Reverse Module, HPI Dual SS Disk Brakes (Mad!!!), Hitec 645MG, Alloy Hubs, Full Alloy Skid Set

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rappa
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Post by rappa » Sun Feb 27, 2005 12:54 pm

I am having a hard time tuning my 4.6. It starts and runs well but wont wheelie and breaks up at full throttle. Down low has nothing. I thought I had it right the other day, then I stripped the spur, put it back together, and now it seems out of tune again. ahh I don't know. Getting a bit frustrated. I have gone through almost a gallon of gas with break in and tuning and still have gotten no where.

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Computer_Titan
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Post by Computer_Titan » Sat Mar 19, 2005 9:54 pm

thanks this really helped me alot

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cutman1681
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Post by cutman1681 » Sat Apr 09, 2005 6:48 am

rappa, it seems that you are running on the rich side. have you tuned your needles since breakin? the 'nothing on the bottom end' is your engine getting bogged down with fuel in the crankcase. start the truck and get is warmed up and then try leaning, clockwise, the high speed needle (hsn) an hour at a time. run the truck for a bit and see how it is. keep leaning till you get the optimum temp and performance. make sure that you DO see a blue white smoke coming from the exhaust at wide open throttle (WOT). the ss 4.6 will fly when tuned right, just stick with it and you shoud be fine. just remember that if it stalls or bogs down, it is getting too much fuel. keep in mind that the nitro engine isnt truly broken in until a gallon or so has gone through. after that the sleeve has had ample oppurtunity to expand and the piston and sleeve have been seated together. GOOD LUCK!!!

p.s. - AWESOME ARTICLE TO START THREAD!!
Savage 25
Hop Ups:
ProLine Velocity 6
ProLine Bowties
Dual Discs
HPI HD Dog Bones and Center Drives
Motor Saver
Venom Hump Pack

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Post by PCC » Sat Apr 23, 2005 1:00 pm

Wow, I wish I would have read this thread last night. I built my shocks last night and, after reading this thread, realised that I should have used real silicon oil instead of the "motor oil" that HPI supplied with my SS4.6 kit and I filled them with the shock shafts down. No wonder they felt like progressive springs!

Time to rebuild my shocks! They haven't even been run, yet!

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Crow
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Post by Crow » Mon May 09, 2005 4:58 pm

Great guide for me, I hope to get a savage soon. :D

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guru302
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Post by guru302 » Thu May 26, 2005 7:44 pm

8O Greetings, i just read the message from HIRISK and i plan to buy a SAVAGE SS 4.6 with the same servos and pistol grip. but after reading for fifth time the post for bullet proof our savae im lost inside so much parts hop ups !! what i need to get to build my truck i don t get ANY tool now.

So here i am i will buy my savage ss 4.6 , servos same then hirisk and same pistols. i need to buy WITCH tools to build my truck. i will by treadlock medium force also.. gpm things... but i dont know exactly in the kit he comes and dont comes with it. do i need to buya fuel line.. foam for tires.. special screw drivers... plug for the engine are included ? i want to know what i need to buy to BUILD and get my truck COMPLETED and ready to run because im starting from scratch.

i really need your help guy this is my first nitro experience im planing to order my savage ss 4.6 from rcmodels.com(because they accept american express hope they are good and SAFE) and buy all the rest from hobbypeople or savage central store.

So i plan to buy this :

tamiya thread lock blue
diff oil (witch strenght?)
shock oil 30 and 35

receiver hump pack 5 cells 1200mah
glow ignitor (any sugested)
hitec : hs-645mg ultra torque
hs-475hb (throttle)
airtronics pistol grip 3 channel same then HIRISK (do the pistol comes always with receivers.. also witch type of plug the servo must be j plug or s plug...)

paint for the body 3 colors red candy , yellow bright and white


tel me if i miss something and tell me if something i buy is already coming with the truck. remember i need everything to get the job done and completed. any special tools ? i got philipps screwdrivers.. and all normal thing for home but not more...

I rade the manual from hpi for the truck and i seems to get everything so i think i should be fine but we never know..

Thank you guys !! i will send you pics when my baby will be finished!
SAVAGE

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cashflow50
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Post by cashflow50 » Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:53 pm

HIRISK wrote:5) BREAK IN PROCEDURE

this is something that I have put together from my own experience with the S25. I have not had any problems starting the new engine, it actually started FIRST TIME and did not stall at all through the entire Break in process and it has run like a dream ever since break in. So I hope this helps some S25 newbies.

1) Check needle settings and ensure that the HSN is 4.5 turns outr from closed and then make sure the LSN is flush with the carb body.

2) Take the factory glow plug out and use a hotter plug. I used a Enya #4.

3) Fill your tank with fuel.

4) Put your Savage on a box or stand so the wheels can spin freely.

5) With your Radio gear turned OFF manually open the carb about a 1/4 of the way.

What does manually opening the carb do? Does it stay open? Im asking this bcuz im a new b. You do this before you fire up the engine? Does this technique place fuel in before you fire it up? Sorry for asking too many questions. Help need more info..hope you can help me...Thanks in advance.


6) Get a regular everyday hairdryer and heat the block until it reaches about 140f to 150f. This will help the first start. This takes about 2 or 3 minutes.

7) Prime the motor by Inserting the Roto Start into the block and put your finger over the exhaust outlet. Press the Roto start button only VERY BREIFLY and watch the fuel in the fuel line. Once the fuel is about 1/2 an inch from reaching the carb - STOP, as this is enough.

8 ) Now you are ready to fire it up and Heat Cycle the engine. Be ready to adjust the carb by hand just incase it is open to much or not enough. Press the Roto start button until the motor fires up (this should only take a few seconds). Once the motor fires up remove the Roto Start and adjust the carb for a slightly high idle. (My SAV25 started first go using this method and did not stall at all through the entire process).

9) Once it is idling OK just let it sit there running for 3 minutes. Keep an eye on the temps and make sure they don't go to high.

10) After 3 minutes, shut the motor down by putting your finger over the exhaust. Once the motor stops use your finger to spin the flywheel and make sure the piston is not stuck at Top Dead Centre. Basically just make sure you can spin the fllywheel back and forward a little.

11) Let the motor completely cool down and then repeat steps 8, 9 and 10 4 more times.

12) Once you have completed Heat Cycling the motor you can then take it off the stand or box and get ready to take it for a little drive!! Fill your tank to the top in preperation. For the next 3 tanks DO NOT ADJUST THE HSN or LSN NEEDLES. You want it to still run really rich. Drive the car like this, avoiding prlonged use of full throttle for 3 tanks of fuel.

13) By this stage you will have done 5 heat cycles and driven through 3 full tanks of fuel. Now you are ready to start tunning the carb!! Firstly remove the Hot glow plug you put in for break in and install a cooler plug. I used an Enya #5. Over the next few tanks of fuel you can slowly (1 hour turns at most) start to lean out the HSN. You will slowly see the performance of the truck start to improve. Do not rush this process, you really want another 2 tanks of fuel to go through the truck while doing this.

14) Now you are ready to really make some power!! Firstly you need to tune the HSN and make sure that it has a nice blue trail of smoke from the exhaust at all times and keep the temps under 295f at max.

15) Now tune your LSN. This really will not need much, if any adjustment.

16) Lastly set your idle to a nice smooth idle.

That is it!! Your SAVAGE has been broken in and will start to loosen up more and more as you run more fuel through it. Just keep an eye on your temps and the smoke trail from your exhaust.

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cashflow50
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Post by cashflow50 » Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:56 pm

Take a look at # 5 in the thread above. The question is located right below it..thanks.

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Savage24
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Post by Savage24 » Wed Aug 24, 2005 5:46 pm

Hey guys just got the Savage on Tuesday and Im breaking it in. I was out with the truck doing the breakin and after 2 tanks the truck still doesnt go very fast at all. Before I read this thread my buddy told me to let a tank run through at idle. Then do my regular breakin. So im into my 3rd tank and want to know if I can start to lean it out a bit to get a bit more power/speed. I would think by tank 3 I could start to tune it. What do you think?Oh and Im in Canada and our temps are about 15C-20C right now My temp gauge didnt go over 220F but on the last 2 tanks it didnt go over 120F whats the deal with that? Any suggestions? thanks

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SAVY_22
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Post by SAVY_22 » Fri Nov 18, 2005 9:05 pm

thats realy onna help alot :D
ll STS savvy ll
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[img]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/midgetpimp11/Savage-centralUser2copy.gif[/img]

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ned
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Post by ned » Mon Dec 05, 2005 10:13 am

new here and going to buy my first 25 on friday. i have copied all important info to my ipod seeing as im buying it and breaking it in away from home and away from a computer.
do i really need to break down the whole truck or is sealing the backplate and carb enough? what are the bare minimum pre-break in checks/fixes needed?
anyway, thanks heaps for the help.

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