911 Clutch Bell Screw Broke Off In Crankshaft 911

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911 Clutch Bell Screw Broke Off In Crankshaft 911

Post by iCow » Sat Nov 22, 2003 4:01 pm

Ok this is just about the final straw. i got my new HPI 3 shoe clutch shoes to pop on my eNVy flywheel. I found the two of the eNVy springs has disintegrated around the clutch nut. I was trying to back out the screw when it started stripping. i had lock tited it pretty well (blue). to keep it from stripping more i locked onto the head with vice grips and attempted to slowly back the screw out.

THEN THE F'N SCREW HEAD BROKE OFF!

So I tried to grab the threads. THEY SNAPPED OFF!

So now I have a BRAND NEW WASP 26 with a POS clutch screw broke off in the end of the drive shaft!

I need some help here before I go through the roof and chunk the whole truck in the trash! I think there is lock tite down inside the crankshaft with the screw. is there a way to heat it or something to break that lock tite free?

How do I get this f'n screw out now?


ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

:evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
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Post by broken-halfshaf » Sat Nov 22, 2003 4:23 pm

If you get a dremel with a cut off wheel, then cut into the end of the crank and screw (if its not too far down this is) and make a cut deep enough to put a flat bladed screw driver in, then get a blow torch or something to heat the crank, get it red hot then try to unscrew the screw, tht might work, then all you might need to do is retap the crank.
Savage.25 - Diff, Throttle, Uniflow mods, HD Driveshafts/Cups, Hitec 645MG Steering Servo, HPI Dual Discs, THS Racing Pipe, 2 Speed pin mod, Locking wheel Hex's

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Post by Savage-Abuser » Sat Nov 22, 2003 4:26 pm

Hmm jus ta long shot but could save your engine. wrap the engine i na think cloth and stick it i na vice with the crank shaft rfacing towards the sky. Take a very smal ldrill bit and drill out the centre of teh screw, the screw wil lcrumble out with some luck.

However i could be wrong ,so does this at your own risk.

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Post by sfgascott » Sat Nov 22, 2003 5:45 pm

Heat will definately help break the bond of the loctite. You might be able to drill it out like mentioned above, but the best thing to use is a easy-out tool.

Scott
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Post by tbill » Sat Nov 22, 2003 7:00 pm

i wonder if there would be enough of a threaded area left on the outside of the crank for a standard crank adapter to work? [i.e. hack the pilot part of the shaft off and use the adapter]
savage #1 lrp z28, savage #2 mach .26, savage #3 wasp .26, savage #4 mach .26, savage X, Hellfire, GS storm,
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Post by iCow » Sat Nov 22, 2003 8:14 pm

ok i've tried drilling it out and i'll keep trying, but i know it's gonna mean a new crankshaft. So it says SG type crankshaft. is that a generic type that i can pick up and stick in? How much and where to get it?

This hobby is really starting to get on my nerves... I should have bought a Tivo and an iPod...

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Post by broken-halfshaf » Sat Nov 22, 2003 8:37 pm

Savage.25 - Diff, Throttle, Uniflow mods, HD Driveshafts/Cups, Hitec 645MG Steering Servo, HPI Dual Discs, THS Racing Pipe, 2 Speed pin mod, Locking wheel Hex's

Hyper 7 Sport - Airtronics MX3

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Post by iCow » Sat Nov 22, 2003 8:43 pm

HOLY SH*T! $80 bucks! screw that. I'll wait till my S-25 replacement gets here. That's insane. be different if i had like 10 gallons through it and it needed a rebuild, but i haven't even tuned it yet!

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.

eBay here i come... selling this crap off.... I'm done...

if i wanted to throw my money into a hole i'd buy a pool... at least i'd get some use out of it...
[url=http://www.iconicarts.com/savss/racer/]My Racer Project - Codename: Little Boy[/url]

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Post by iCow » Sat Nov 22, 2003 9:48 pm

well that's it... the brand new WASP is officially fubar... that screw ain;t coming out and i fear the crank end threads are all hosed now.

I guess I'll save up and get anew crank sometime... Tower doesn't even have them.

I wrote to orion explaining my woes... maybe they will take pity on me...

until i get an answer... i am officially out of nitro rc for a while...

cya
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Post by CRSMP5 » Sat Nov 22, 2003 10:59 pm

do what tbill stated.. you cut the front piolet shaft off.. then use the ofna clutchnut/piolet shaft thats 1 piece to fix the boo boo.. :D pm him for more info...

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Post by tbill » Sun Nov 23, 2003 8:03 am

well, i looked all over and couldn't find the part number for the adapter i used on the mach.26, but i did look at the crank on my wasp, and it looks like you could cut off the 'pilot' portion of it, and then get something like this to get back in business,

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... LXABA2&P=7


i'm thinkin this will work for you, and it's cheap too.


edit: or box that thing up with the clutch parts and send it to me and i'll get ya fixed up :D
savage #1 lrp z28, savage #2 mach .26, savage #3 wasp .26, savage #4 mach .26, savage X, Hellfire, GS storm,
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Post by CRSMP5 » Sun Nov 23, 2003 8:22 am

i belive thats it tbill... :D i have seen people screw up and thats the solution... basically you cut the shaft then use the adapter.... maybe ill buy a shaft today, and use broken block 21bb as demo of how to do it....

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Post by iCow » Sun Nov 23, 2003 8:44 am

you know that will at least get me back on the road until i can get a new crankshaft. How's the durability? I'd hate to see my clutch go flying off at high speeds or have a wobble in the crank.

also how much do i cut off the main shaft? down to the threads?
[url=http://www.iconicarts.com/savss/racer/]My Racer Project - Codename: Little Boy[/url]

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Post by iCow » Sun Nov 23, 2003 8:48 am

ok also since i will be attempting this surgery and using an OFNA nut, should i go ahead and get ofns shoe springs for the clutch shoes so they line up better? I have the HPI shoes for the 25RTR.
[url=http://www.iconicarts.com/savss/racer/]My Racer Project - Codename: Little Boy[/url]

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Post by tbill » Sun Nov 23, 2003 9:07 am

before you cut, slide the flywheel on and hold the nut next to the shaft so you can visualise what the installed height will be with it actually bolted on. depending on the flywheel used, take into consideration the thickness of any shims used. keep in mind the depth of the threads in the adapter nut, like i say, i think there will be plenty of threads to work with. also, with doing this you won't need a new crank.

now that i think of it, you could compare the height of the 'nut' portion on the adapter to the height of the SG nut you have now, if it's the same [groove location/height etc.] you could bolt the flywheel on with your existing nut, then just cut the end off flush with that, then ya know ya got a perfect fit.

hope this helps
savage #1 lrp z28, savage #2 mach .26, savage #3 wasp .26, savage #4 mach .26, savage X, Hellfire, GS storm,
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Post by iCow » Sun Nov 23, 2003 9:14 am

hmmmm my fear is... i think the threads extend out past the top of the standard nut. i'll double check that, but i'm pretty sure.

oh and again can i use a hex screw from the shim kit for the end screw? i do not want to go down the same raod again later...
[url=http://www.iconicarts.com/savss/racer/]My Racer Project - Codename: Little Boy[/url]

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Post by tbill » Sun Nov 23, 2003 9:17 am

well, keep in mind with the envy flywheel you'll probably have to shim the nut to get the springs in the groove, and you could always count the threads that hang out, and trim it off.
savage #1 lrp z28, savage #2 mach .26, savage #3 wasp .26, savage #4 mach .26, savage X, Hellfire, GS storm,
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Post by iCow » Sun Nov 23, 2003 9:21 am

and just use my dremmel cut wheel right?
[url=http://www.iconicarts.com/savss/racer/]My Racer Project - Codename: Little Boy[/url]

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Post by iCow » Sun Nov 23, 2003 11:51 am

ok so i cut the crank off just before the threads start and then shim between the flywheel and the clutch nut yes? or do i shim behind the collet? I've never had to shim before so i want to do this right.

use my dremmel cut wheel?

is there a risk of making the pilot too long? I don't what mesh issues after this...

I've ordered the OFNA shim kit and the nut/pilot end piece. Wow $13 bucks sure is better than $80, especially since I just got the WASP.

now would you recommend using a hex screw instead of a phillips from now on?

I know now that if it ever happens to me again (broken screw) all i have to do is get a new $8 nut/pilot.
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Post by CRSMP5 » Sun Nov 23, 2003 12:02 pm

i use hex screws in most of my savage just cause they easier... :lol: i would screw on a original nut 1st.. cut it.. then unscrew the nut also.. so if a bur were to come from cutting it it would self clean the threads... :D when taking it off.. yep use dremal..

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