Savage 3 spd transmission teardown / second gear adjustment

Tech tips for the Savage can be found here.

Moderator: Moderators

Post Reply
User avatar
SLAYERDUDE
Savage Extraordinaire
Savage Extraordinaire
Posts: 1416
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2011 11:00 pm

Savage 3 spd transmission teardown / second gear adjustment

Post by SLAYERDUDE » Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:36 pm

The XL transmission is fairly simple to work on.
In this first installment I will go thru the basic disassembly for your average repair.
I roached my plastic gear after 7 gallons of abuse, so that's what I'm up to today.
I knew this was going to happen because the bearings in the trans have been bad for a while from running in the snow last winter.
But I'm lazy and low on funds so...
Guess it's time for new bearings and a $4 gear.

In some cases you will need to remove one of the TVP's and the engine plate.
That is only necesary when removal of the case is required.
Which is a little more time consuming, but I'll stick with the basics today.


First remove the rollbar, this is held on with 4 screws.
2 on each side of the truck.

Next, either rotate the air cleaner out of the way (what I do) or remove the air cleaner to access the remaining
3 screws that hold the upper case half of the trans on.

7 screws in total to remove top half of trans case.

Once the 3 screws in the recesses on top of the tranny are out,
Simply slide the top half of the trans case out with the spur gear attatched.

Top half removed-
Image

Bottom half still in truck, gear assembly removed-
Image

Now you can pull the gear assembly out of the trans.
The bearings are not held on the shaft, the case holds them in place so remove the bearings and set aside.
(Now is a good time to clean them)

Here is the main gear assembly-
Image

First step in disassembling this is to remove the E-clip from the shaft.
Do this by simply inserting a small flathead screwdriver in the gap of the E
in the E-clip and twist the blade of the screwdriver.
Be sure to keep your finger on the E-clip so it does not fly away never to be found again.

Placement of screwdriver blade in E-clip-
Image



Image

E-clip removed-
Image

Now the first gear on the shaft (the main drive gear that connects to the driveshafts) will slide off
and there will be a pin holding the next gear on.

Gear removed and pin still in shaft-
Image

Slide the pin out and the plastic gear that is connected to the OWB (One Way Bearing) will slide off the shaft.

Pin removed-
Image

Plastic gear/OWB removed-
Image

Other side of OWB and gear-
Image

_____________________________________________________________

This is as far as I had to go with the teardown, and all I had time to do at work today lol.

So for now you are at the point where you can replace the plastic gear,
or the OWB that is held onto the plastic gear with 3 screws.

Here's a couple pics of the trashed gear if you didn't notice it in the other pics.

Image

Image

PART 2 - THE PLOT THICKENS

I decided to fully tear down the trans and do a write up on how to set the shift point for second gear.
It's a good thing I did this because the bearings that second and third gear ride on are trashed.
So trashed in fact that the flange came off one of the bearings...

I will now continue from where I took the plastic first gear and OWB assembly off.

_____________________________________________________________

To access the shift adjustment for second gear, you will need to remove the third gear clutch and third gear.
You want to remove the grubscrew that is centered with the main shaft and not the one that is offset.
The offset one is the shift point tension screw.

Center hole (shown with gear removed) and 86094 goes thru the shaft -

Image
Under the first Z721 grubscrew there is a 86094 setscrew that goes thru the main shaft, remove this also.

Grubscrew-
Image

Setscrew-
Image

Grubscrew and setscrew removed-

Image

Now the clutch and third gear will slide off the shaft.
As well as second gear.
There is a washer in there, so keep track of that.
The washer goes between the 2 gears.

Finally the second gear clutch adjustment screw is accessible.

At this point the only part on the shaft will be the second gear clutch.
There is no need to remove this.

If you want the trans to hit second gear earlier-
Turn the screw that is offset from the main shaft counterclockwise
This will take some tension off the spring that counteracts the centrifugal force on the shifting pawl causing it to come out earlier.

If you want second gear to shift later-
Turn the screw that is offset from the main shaft clockwise.
This will put more pressure on the spring against the shift pawl.
Taking more centrifugal force for it to extend and grab the gear.

Do this in 1/4 turn increments.
You would be surprised how easy it is to overdo it.
Don't worry about having to get back into the trans and adjust it again.
After a couple times in, it's a real piece of cake and most likely you will get a result that you will like the first time around.

Third gear which can be adjusted with the truck assembled via the hole in the trans case-
(note the cutout in the gear)
Image

Second gear-
(note no cutout in the gear)

Image

Assembled main gears.
From right to left-
Far right- Main drive gear out to the wheels (steel)
Plastic first gear
Steel second gear
Far left- Steel third gear
Image

Here's the bearing that sheared off the flange..

Image


Don't forget to use blue loctite on the setscrews # 86094 and Z721!


Please comment if this was helpful, or if I have missed/gotten anything wrong.

*DISCLAIMER*
I'm no expert, so if you jack up your truck from listening to me it ain't my fault.



Exploded views of the transmission are found on page 51 of the Savage XL manual.
This may help in reassembly, but I recomend laying the parts out as they come off.
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/pdf/10515.pdf


SLAYER
[img]http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy229/rc1/Avitars/sc.gif[/img]

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest