10 Step How-To: Shim The Differentials

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hypa
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Re: 10 Step How-To: Shim The Differentials

Post by hypa » Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:55 am

Guys I have destroyed the diffs on my Savage Limited after only two days of driving. Thank god for this tutorial to help me for next time.

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Post by click-aus » Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:29 am

Hey guys
One quick question i have is what diif lube/grease would work best on the savage diff?
Also i have gone for 30,000 rear & 50,000 front oil will this work for bashing
thx

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Post by hypa » Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:53 am

Do you guys recommend alloy diff cups? Will the Golden Horizon diff cups work with the 4 gear diffs? Can people please provide part numbers to all the washers and shims they are using in their diffs? Also what weight oil is suitable for racing? Sorry for all the questions, thanks in advance.

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TheViking
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Post by TheViking » Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:20 pm

Isnt there a place to get full diff shim sets to the savage? *censored* many companies makes them for their cars, not HPI though... Bet the diffs are their greatest income source..
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Post by sicj » Tue Nov 07, 2006 5:19 pm

TheViking wrote:Isnt there a place to get full diff shim sets to the savage? *censored* many companies makes them for their cars, not HPI though... Bet the diffs are their greatest income source..



the answers are all over this thread...

this was on page 5...
sicj wrote:HPI now has shims that can be used as well, little more attainable too.

HPI Part #: 86598
Savage SS Basher
TLT Custom Tube-Chassis Crawler
Lunch Box
TA05

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Post by TheViking » Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:44 am

can you plz tell me whitch one of these to get??
http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_se ... &x=35&y=16
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Post by Busta » Wed Nov 08, 2006 11:08 pm

KYOBS53
Im sorry officer, I didnt realize that was illegal!

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Post by savagista » Mon Dec 04, 2006 1:20 pm

great post whitout no doubt, but the hpi guy

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Post by uziblaster » Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:25 am

[quote="sicj"]10 Step How-To: Shim a Differential
Why do I need to shim the differential?
The Differential Housing cannot support the diff tight enough to keep the ring-and-pinion gear mesh constant. This can cause the failure of the pinion by breaking off some teeth or cause the ring-and-pinion to skip off each other grinding each gears

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Post by scrogg » Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:54 pm

Yes the shim goes inbetween the bearing and drive cup. Make sure it is in place when you put the diff into the gearbox. They bend easy. One shim on both sides is a good starting point.
Old nitro junkie with a Flux xs

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Post by uziblaster » Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:43 am

thanks for your reply

i can not put any shims inside as i striped it all down and when i do put any shims in it is way to tight when i rejoin diff case as it makes the small cogs bind up

so i took all shims out and made my own gaskets for diff the big round one with 4 holes in first i put one in and noticed it was a bit better so i added another making a thickness of aprox 2 mm now when everything is tightened up all is smooth even when i push and pull on outside of drivecups.

there is a bit of play on outside but now i know its not binding i will put some smaller shims on outside between cup and bearing to take up the play.


does this sound ok

thanks

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Post by scrogg » Mon Mar 05, 2007 2:25 am

This thread is all about shimming the ring and pinion, are you talking about the spider gears? I do not shim them, not in the plastic cups anyways. I just assemble per HPI's stock instructions and run them. I have the aluminum XSS diff cup in the rear of my truck, I left it alone as well. Sounds like you got it right though the 2mm of gasket has me wondering. Should not need to do that.
When you check the side to side play of the entire diff, you hold the diff by the bearings and wiggle it back and forth in the gearbox. If it moves, you need some shims. Also you want the ring and pinion to mesh together as close as possible and still turn freely. Once you do this you can beat on the diffs all day long with breaking the ring and pinion.
Old nitro junkie with a Flux xs

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Post by ashburg » Mon May 07, 2007 7:53 pm

I know that scroggmobile truck...seen it hoppin like 16 feet in the air the other day 8)

Ok, I just joined the gpm diff shimming club - now waiting on parts.

FYI, the stock savage x ss diffs, although "tight", are INcorrectly shimmed from the FACtory. After tearing it down after this past weekend of jumping and such, I took a close look - the factory put the x ss shims on the inside of the bearing, not on the outside of the bearing between the bearing and the case as this thread describes; in effect, they shimmed the bearings OUT towards the wheels...which has absolutely no effect LOL

very good info guys, thanks sicj and pals

lata
ash


scrogg wrote:This thread is all about shimming the ring and pinion, are you talking about the spider gears? I do not shim them, not in the plastic cups anyways. I just assemble per HPI's stock instructions and run them. I have the aluminum XSS diff cup in the rear of my truck, I left it alone as well. Sounds like you got it right though the 2mm of gasket has me wondering. Should not need to do that.
When you check the side to side play of the entire diff, you hold the diff by the bearings and wiggle it back and forth in the gearbox. If it moves, you need some shims. Also you want the ring and pinion to mesh together as close as possible and still turn freely. Once you do this you can beat on the diffs all day long with breaking the ring and pinion.
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Post by ashburg » Sun May 27, 2007 1:34 pm

scrogg...like I showed you at the sandpits, mine is doing the same thing. The pinion is binding on the crown gear at one point in the rotation. As opposed to putting in more cup gaskets, all else being equal, I think the problem is inconsistencies with the gpm case assembly and/or inconsistencies with the HPI Savage X SS diff cup.

If its binding in one point on the rotation on the crown to pinion, that means I'd have to sand down the cup end of the cup............at an angle.......which is not really possible to do accurately.

My fear is that this binding will eventually crack the pinion or the crown and I'll be back at square one.

So - any suggestions?

scrogg wrote:This thread is all about shimming the ring and pinion, are you talking about the spider gears? I do not shim them, not in the plastic cups anyways. I just assemble per HPI's stock instructions and run them. I have the aluminum XSS diff cup in the rear of my truck, I left it alone as well. Sounds like you got it right though the 2mm of gasket has me wondering. Should not need to do that.
When you check the side to side play of the entire diff, you hold the diff by the bearings and wiggle it back and forth in the gearbox. If it moves, you need some shims. Also you want the ring and pinion to mesh together as close as possible and still turn freely. Once you do this you can beat on the diffs all day long with breaking the ring and pinion.
http://www.ashburg.com | http://www.bulletproofsavage.com | http://www.nitroshow.org

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Post by madmouse » Sun May 27, 2007 7:28 pm

sounds like the gear didnt go on all the way on one side r the grear has a small nick in it.
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Post by ashburg » Sun May 27, 2007 8:22 pm

I'm leaning towards "small nick". Got it back together, minus all shims on the crown side, one shim on the cup side. Side to side movement is probably in the .007" range

I think that'll ride!

madmouse wrote:sounds like the gear didnt go on all the way on one side r the grear has a small nick in it.
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Post by NigelR32 » Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:53 am

Hi all,

First post on here. I bought a Firestorm a few weks back, my first Nitro Car, then bought a new X4.6 RTR last week. Haven't had time to run it yet :( :(

I've read this thread right through, and am a little confused??

Question:-

Are the alloy Diff cases in the new Savage kits the Muts nuts? Have HPI done away with the need to Shim them??

Also....Shimming the Bearings away from the Diff is the same as Shimming the bearings on the outside..Surely??

Regards

Nigel

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Post by attilio » Sun Jul 29, 2007 10:45 am

:twisted: I just saw in another post about using mobil 1 synthetic grease on the inside because it keeps the gears lubed better than the silicone

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Post by Naossoan » Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:03 pm

where exactly do you put the shims ? Do you put them on top of the bearing then slide the outdrive in afterwards?

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Post by 33gasser » Sat Aug 25, 2007 12:35 am

sicj wrote:10 Step How-To: Shim a Differential

Parts Needed:
-1 (or 2) completely disassembled differentials
-Kyosho Shims Part# BS53 (need 2 packs) 1 pack includes 4 shims
I've been unable to find these shims does anyone have a source for them? There is a later post with a URL at Tower but it is no longer good.

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